What tests would you use to determine the "best" ingredient?

PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
Suppose you had an ingredient competition to determine which ingredient is the "best" for some specific application.  What series of tests would you use to determine which ingredient is the "best"?

For example, I'm of the opinion that Petrolatum is the best skin occlusive agent. The test run to show this would be a TEWL study.  So, if someone wanted to make the claim that a new ingredient was superior to Petrolatum (in terms of skin moisturization) all they would have to do is show a TEWL study showing it to be true. 

What tests would you run for any of the following ingredient performance features?

Cleansing
Moisturization
Hair products (any characteristic)

Comments

  • BubblesBubbles Member
    Would you set up an experiment with a standardized base formula and use corneometry to test performance as it relates to skin moisturization? I ask in the form of a question because I'm unsure.
  • SibechSibech Member, Professional Chemist
    For moisturization purposes, we usually go with both TEWL measurements in conjunction with dermal conductance measured over time.

    Cleansing has usually been a comparative washing with relevant coloured products as the reference.
    Dabbling Formulator — Qualified Cosmetic Safety Assessor — experienced in claim substantiation & EU regulatory affairs.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Bubbles said:
    Would you set up an experiment with a standardized base formula and use corneometry to test performance as it relates to skin Moisturization
    This is one of the challenges. I would use 2 controls, no treatment & the best ingredient . So I would start with petrolatum as the best occlusive agent & if something performs better, that would be my new “best” control.  If you were using a finished formula, then I would compare everything to the best formula.
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