Developing a toner

Good day! Currently, I'm developing an alcohol free toner.

For 100g

Water 83.90
Jojoba oil 3.00
Aloe Vera Extract 3.00
Lime Extract = 1.00
Glycerine = 5.00
Phenoxyethanol = 0.9
Surfactant=???

Do I still need surfactant/solubilizer since some of may ingredients are oil? Can you recommend any surfactant/solubilizer?

Thank you! 

Comments

  • Correction, is surfactant the right ingredient to use to a toner or solubilizer?
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited July 4
    A toner is a marketing term. First toners contained alcohol. Later (mid 90's) they started including surfactants and became additional step after cleansing milk (to remove residue left by the cleansing milk). Nowadays toner is nothing more but a liquid serum (water, some extract for claims and glycerin). It is a moisturising product. So you should decide what your product is supposed to do, cleaning or moisturising. Adding oil and surfactant will make it a cleansing product.

    What is aloe vera extract? Is it something like aloe vera x 200 or it's aloe vera juice?
  • A toner is a marketing term. First toners contained alcohol. Later (mid 90's) they started including surfactants and became additional step after cleansing milk (to remove residue left by the cleansing milk). Nowadays toner is nothing more but a liquid serum (water, some extract for claims and glycerin). It is a moisturising product. So you should decide what your product is supposed to do, cleaning or moisturising. Adding oil and surfactant will make it a cleansing product.

    What is aloe vera extract? Is it something like aloe vera x 200 or it's aloe vera juice?

    Thank you for this information, Sir @n@ngarayeva001. So meaning, if I were to develop a toner it should have a alcohol always since its main function is to cleanse. I think this is the aloe vera extract concentrate x10. 


  • No, what I was trying to say is that toners were changing throughout time. I am personally not a fan of alcohol in skincare, although many chemists would disagree with this. If it’s a cleansing product, remove oils and add PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric glycerides. Alternatively you can add  polysorbate 80 or even decyl glucoside but that wouldn’t be my first choice.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @paoloferino

    Water 83.90
    Jojoba oil 3.00
    Aloe Vera Extract 3.00
    Lime Extract = 1.00
    Glycerine = 5.00
    Phenoxyethanol = 0.9
    Surfactant/Solubilizer

    This is going to be a sticky mess with Glycerine loaded in at 5% in a water-based formula.  You might want to cut that down to 1% or less.  Better yet, use Glycerine at 0.5% and Sodium Lactate at 4% to 5% or Saccharide Isomerate at 2% or so.

    That's also a high load of Jojoba Oil that you'll need to solubilize ... you might want to cut that down to 1% and solubilize it with Poly Suga Mulse D9 loaded in at 3% to 5%.  Since Jojoba Oil is actually a wax, it will almost definitely form waxy flakes over time suspended in your base, so Jojoba Oil is not a very good choice for this product format.  
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    Provides Formulation Development and Lab-Scale Contract Manufacturing Services.  See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com

  • @paoloferino

    Water 83.90
    Jojoba oil 3.00
    Aloe Vera Extract 3.00
    Lime Extract = 1.00
    Glycerine = 5.00
    Phenoxyethanol = 0.9
    Surfactant/Solubilizer

    This is going to be a sticky mess with Glycerine loaded in at 5% in a water-based formula.  You might want to cut that down to 1% or less.  Better yet, use Glycerine at 0.5% and Sodium Lactate at 4% to 5% or Saccharide Isomerate at 2% or so.

    That's also a high load of Jojoba Oil that you'll need to solubilize ... you might want to cut that down to 1% and solubilize it with Poly Suga Mulse D9 loaded in at 3% to 5%.  Since Jojoba Oil is actually a wax, it will almost definitely form waxy flakes over time suspended in your base, so Jojoba Oil is not a very good choice for this product format.  

    Thank you for this information @MarkBroussard. This will be a good help. I will run this suggestion and I will update. Thank you. Can you suggest any solubilizer though I have an available Polysobrate-20. 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Poly Suga Mulse D9 as solubilizer.  But, my first recommendation would be to not use Jojoba Oil.  Instead, if you really, really want to add an oil, perhaps Rose Hip Oil at 1%.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    Provides Formulation Development and Lab-Scale Contract Manufacturing Services.  See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com

  • Poly Suga Mulse D9 as solubilizer.  But, my first recommendation would be to not use Jojoba Oil.  Instead, if you really, really want to add an oil, perhaps Rose Hip Oil at 1%.

    Thank you!
Sign In or Register to comment.