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  • Lotion goes liquify!

    Posted by ggpetrov on April 7, 2019 at 4:57 pm
    Hi, today I decided to make a lotion with Dermofeel GSC palm oil free, wich I have had since a long time, but I have never had a success with it. Here is my basic formula :

    * Gliceryl stearate citrate - 3%
    * Behenyl alcohol - 3%
    * Myristyl myristate - 1%
    * Cetiol Ultimate - 2%
    * Isoamyl laurate - 2%
    * Olive sqvalane - 2%
    * Caprylic capric triglycerides - 4%
    * Refined Mango butter - 3%
    * Water - 70%
    * Allantoin - 0.5%
    * Glycerin - 2%
    * Sodium PCA - 2%
    * Sodium lactate - 2%
    * Pentylene glycol - 2%
    * Preservative - 1.5%

    I heated the water and oil phase, then I mixed the oil in water, and stirred with stick blender for 5 minutes. After that I switched to hand mixer until it cools down. Everything was fine, the emulsion became thick and nice, but when I added the cool down phase ( Sodium PCA, Sodium lactate and Pentylene glycol), I added them at once, and the lotion became watery  immediately, but without separatation.

    I checked the Ph value with Ph paper, and it was 6. I guess it is normal Ph value for a lotion. I am curious wich ingredient could make the lotion watery. I suppose it could be Sodium lactate or Sodium PCA, but I am not sure wich one. As I know the Pentylene glycol is used as a thickener, so I guess it can’t be the reason. 
    Any ideas?
    PS after 30 minutes the lotion has separated!
    ggpetrov replied 4 years, 11 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Vnnil

    Member
    April 8, 2019 at 5:19 am

    Switch to nonionic emulsifier 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    April 8, 2019 at 5:49 am

    I haven’t worked with this emulsifiers but both sodium pca and sodium lactate are high in electrolytes. They often cause loss of viscosity. Replace with glycerin and see how it works. Also add carbomer or a natural gum for stability. If you are interested in making lotion with sodium lactate/pca use glyceryl stearate/PEG100 stearate.

  • Przemyslaw

    Member
    April 8, 2019 at 7:25 am

    Hi!

    Like ngarayeva001 said there is too much electrolytes. What kind of preservative do You use?

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    April 8, 2019 at 11:53 am
    Hi again, I have tried to make the lotion again on my own risk, but I have changed the formula.
    I added 3% Montanov 202 and removed the Olive squalane.
    Also I divided the lotion in two beakers, one for basic lotion and another to test the reaction with humectants. I added the Pentilene glycol and Sodium PCA one by one, and I noticed that nothing happened. I haven’t used Sodum lactate! The lotion is pretty good actually, quite thick but not greasy, and has a great matteing effect.
    To be honnest, it rubs a bit over my skin. I noticed that effect when I use GSC and I didn’t know why. But here at the forum I read that this emulsifier is sensitive to Allantoin at the hot water phase. So I am planning to make another lotion without Allantoin, and see what will happen.

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