Formula Help

Hi all,

Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I'm attempting to make an eye cream but it will not set by the next day after I've made my sample. It is still very runny. I have been able to make a serum of the formula below, but Id really like to make a light cream work as it is an under eye product. Do I need to increase my emulsifier? Any help with the formula would be very appreciated. 

A Water 76.1g

B Glycerin 2.0g 
B Honeyquat 3.0 
B Xanthan gum (hydrating with the glycerin and then adding honeyquat) .4g 

C Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 1.5g
C Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) 4g
C Avacado Oil 2g 
C Beeswax 1g 

D Green Tea Extract 1g (Water & Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract)
D Vitamin K in liposome 4g
D Mushroom Extract 3g (Lactobacillus/Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi Mushroom) Extract /Lentinus Edodes (Shitake Mushroom) Extract Ferment Filtrate)
D Hyaluronic Acid (1%) 1g 
D Geogard ECT 1g (Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid) 

Comments

  • pH is 5.8
  • I also added in another formulation 1g niacinamide. So water would be 75.1g 
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    try adding cetearyl alcohol to your oil phase
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Bill_Toge said:
    try adding cetearyl alcohol to your oil phase
    Thanks, Bill. I'll put some on order. 
  • Any suggestion on the amount of cetaryl alcohol I should use? 
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    dthul1 said:
    Any suggestion on the amount of cetaryl alcohol I should use? 
    I'd suggest you start with 2% and work from there

    also, xanthan gum is anionic, meaning it's incompatible with the Honeyquat; chances are that's not helping matters at all
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Bill_Toge said:
    dthul1 said:
    Any suggestion on the amount of cetaryl alcohol I should use? 
    I'd suggest you start with 2% and work from there

    also, xanthan gum is anionic, meaning it's incompatible with the Honeyquat; chances are that's not helping matters at all
    Should I get rid of the honeyquat all together? I was utilizing it so the glycerin would t get to sticky on the skin. 
    Thanks in advance. 
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    edited February 2019
    dthul1 said:
    Bill_Toge said:
    dthul1 said:
    Any suggestion on the amount of cetaryl alcohol I should use? 
    I'd suggest you start with 2% and work from there

    also, xanthan gum is anionic, meaning it's incompatible with the Honeyquat; chances are that's not helping matters at all
    Should I get rid of the honeyquat all together? I was utilizing it so the glycerin would t get to sticky on the skin. 
    Thanks in advance. 
    yes, chances are it's knackering your xanthan gum

    in my experience, glycerine in a cream doesn't feel at all sticky at only 2%; the effects of the oil phase would counteract that

    mind you, some people (namely, the type who buy things then do nothing but whinge about them) would find water sticky
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
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