Herbal shampoo formulation

hello
I am working towards making a shampoo where I am using herbal infusion in place of water 
The water is infused with dried rosemary , shikakai  , fenugreek and soapnuts .I will be using guar gum as thickener .I have SLMI , decyl glucoside and cocabetaine in hand .
i made a trial batch using 15 gm of SLMI flakes and 5 ml of coca betaine in 300 ml of infusion it resulted in lots of lather with sufficient cleansing but my hair felt tangled .
can I use almond oil as a conditioning agent along with lecithin .
any suggestions .. I want to keep it as close to natural as possible without compromising much on lather and conditioning.
i have not used decyl glucoside as yet 
plz advise 

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  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    edited February 3
    You will need a very strong preservative system with such approch. Hydrosols and infusions are bug food. I would recommend skipping it and adding a tiny amount of some plant extract for claims, unless you are willing to use parabens or diazodilinyl urea. Your hair will feel tangled  without  conditioning ingredients. Oil isn’t a conditioning ingredient. You need cationic polymers (or cetrimonium chloride if the formula is non-ionic). I am not aware of the existence of natural conditioners. Also natural isn’t a defined term. Everything is natural for me.
  • You will need a very strong preservative system with such approch. Hydrosols and infusions are bug food. I would recommend skipping it and adding a tiny amount of some plant extract for claims, unless you are willing to use parabens or diazodilinyl urea. Your hair will feel tangled  without  conditioning ingredients. Oil isn’t a conditioning ingredient. You need cationic polymers (or cetrimonium chloride if the formula is non-ionic). I am not aware of the existence of natural conditioners. Also natural isn’t a defined term. Everything is natural for me.
    If I omit the herbal infusion completely and use distilled water  and use only SLMI and cocabetaine as primary and secondary surfactants and cetrimonium chloride as conditioner .will  the shampoo still work fine without many ingredients as want a Sulfate and silicon free product.
  • Just try it and see.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Is SLMI anionic? If so, don’t use cetrimonium. 2% of polyquat 7 should work. And don’t use more than 5% of decyl glucoside (you can skip it at all). Silicones are nice but you can make a good product without silicones if use cationics.
  • Belassi said:
    Just try it and see.
    That’s what I am doing wanted an expert guidance about what can I expect 
  • Is SLMI anionic? If so, don’t use cetrimonium. 2% of polyquat 7 should work. And don’t use more than 5% of decyl glucoside (you can skip it at all). Silicones are nice but you can make a good product without silicones if use cationics.
    I think it is anionic .. I will check again I will go for polyquat , can I try honeyquat in place of cetrimonium chloride .
    i again tried 10% of SLMI and 5% cocabetaine 
    there was plenty of lather and good cleansing 
    it seemed that even if I reduce the SLMI a little it will work but it was a disappointment for detangling 
    will adding 2% of Argan oil  with polysorbate 80 work 
    thanks for giving your time
  • Well there you go - you now have physical knowledge of how that combo turned out. 
    I don't think your idea of oil and ps80 will be any good, my guess is the foam would be inadequate.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Again, it might be contrintuitive but oils in shampoos don't do what people normally expect. They don't make hair smoother but just supress lather and compromise stability. The feeling that you want is achieved by using right surfactants and conditioners. Add 2% of honeyquat and you will see the difference. And don't add any glucosides they tangle hair.
  • Analise commercial products with oils. You will notice that oils are very close to 1% line. It is just a marketing trick, because consumer thinks that oils are good for hair.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    The whole point of shampoos is to remove oil. Adding oil to a shampoo formula is not generally a good idea.
  • I am not getting much information about SLMI except from the companies which are promoting this 
    how can I know more about this as this surfectant is relatively new in the market
  • @001 Thanks a lot 5% SLMI with 5% coca betaine is working well for my hair except conditioning issue .
    will add polyquat and see .
    do you suggest adding keratin protein powder and panthenol 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    What information are you trying to find that you don't have? Your question is too vague to give a good answer.  

    Here is the safety information about SMLI - https://www.dropbox.com/s/5irtrckvue5w90p/SMLI-safety.pdf?dl=0

    Keratin protein and Panthenol are water soluble and will simply be washed away during shampooing. They will not have any significant effect on your hair.  They are claims ingredients put into formulas for a good story. They don't actually do anything (from a shampoo especially).
  • Perry said:
    What information are you trying to find that you don't have? Your question is too vague to give a good answer.  

    Here is the safety information about SMLI - https://www.dropbox.com/s/5irtrckvue5w90p/SMLI-safety.pdf?dl=0

    Keratin protein and Panthenol are water soluble and will simply be washed away during shampooing. They will not have any significant effect on your hair.  They are claims ingredients put into formulas for a good story. They don't actually do anything (from a shampoo especially).
    Hi 
    I am not a chemist to have a good background knowledge 
    i am doing research and working on few  ingredients to formulate something suitable and safe  for me .
    My queries might be vague and not to the point but this is how we learn .
    plz don’t answer if it irritates you . I am still working on how to combine ingredients depending on their cationic and anionic nature .
    Thanks for bearing me 🙂
  • @Perry ;
    The research paper is really helpful 
    thanks 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Sorry if my response came off as sounding irritated. It wasn't meant that way at all. I wanted you to get answers that are helpful but without a specific question, it's hard to know what information would help.
  • Perry said:
    Sorry if my response came off as sounding irritated. It wasn't meant that way at all. I wanted you to get answers that are helpful but without a specific question, it's hard to know what information would help.
    Thanks for being so understanding.
    I have Reached to this formulation after trying a lot 
    SMLI -5%
    cocabetaine -10%
    polyquat -2%
    guar gum 2%
    water to make it 100% 
    essential oil -1%
    This is Ok on hair ...how can I improve it more in terms of conditioning without weighing my hair down 
    Can I use BTMS 50 
    and I have no idea about the cationic and anionic nature of ingredients ... does this recipe looks balanced to you?
  • Again, it might be contrintuitive but oils in shampoos don't do what people normally expect. They don't make hair smoother but just supress lather and compromise stability. The feeling that you want is achieved by using right surfactants and conditioners. Add 2% of honeyquat and you will see the difference. And don't add any glucosides they tangle hair.
    I have BTMS50 can I try that in place of honeyquat
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    I have BTMS50 can I try that in place of honeyquat
    - No, but try making a very small sample (100mL) to see why.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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