'Grime' appeared on cream

Dear all,

I have problem with this formula:

Water phase:
Aqua
Xanthan gum 1%
Propylen glycol 2%
Glycerine 2%
Phenoxyethanol 1%


Oil phase:
Emulium delta (Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20) 5%
Stearyl alcohol 2%
Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride 3%
Coco caprylate 4%
Cetearyl isononanoate 3%
Silicon oil 5%

Hot process.

Personally, the formula forms good texture, spreadibility, and shining cream. But when applied on skin, dried for a while, and then rubbed gently -- then (I called it) 'grime' appeared, something like a small layer detached from skin .. I hope you all understand what I mean.. 

I noticed that if I eliminate the Silicon oil, then there will be no 'grime'. But the spreadibility becomes bad and look like 'soap' when rubbed on skin.

What happens actually ? i guess the silicon oil is incompatible with xanthan gum. Any suggests what ingredients to replace silicon oil?

Thanks a lot


Comments

  • I think that "grime" is from the high amount of Xanthan gum- it's forming a layer as it dries and will start "pilling" and peeling off your skin when rubbed. Xanthan gum is usually used at 0.5% or less. I can't comment on why it's doing it only in the presence of dimethicone though.

    "But the spreadibility becomes bad and look like 'soap' when rubbed on skin." That is quite literally called "soaping" and dimethicone is the best way to eliminate it. You can also try something like isoamyl laurate (dermofeel sensolv) but it doesn't always work to get rid of soaping.

  • Agree with gld010: xanthan is "pilling" upon rubdown on the skin. Get rid of it, you don't need it. You DO need a preservative, though. Phenoxyethanol is NOT a preservative by itself. 
  • I had made several trials with xanthan gum 1% and there were no 'grime' or 'peeliing off' . It only occurs if silicon oil exist. I have choices to eliminate xanthan gum or silicon oil and still working on. I just wondering any theory about this 'grime'.
    I prefer use xanthan gum so maybe you have alternative material to replace silicon oil ? 
  • Could you better define "silicone oil?"

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • I use Silicon Oil (Dimethicone) 100 cps
  • Ok, then the INCI would be Dimethicone.

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • i would try a alkane with high boiling point
  • Dear all, 

    Thank you for all the opinions. As an update, I have succeed in eliminating the grime, by reducing xanthan gum and replace dimethicone with alkane. Thanks @gld010  @jeromeinthehouse. So I had found suitable formula for my cream BASE. I hope with this cream base I can get some products by just adding up other active ingredients (powder/liquid) in it.

    But when I add arbutin powder 5% and tranexamic acid powder 3%, the grime appeared again. I also tried to solubilize the powder in water, but the grime still appeared. Why this happened ? Did I missed something? Thank you all
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