Cosmeceutical and cosmetic supplement ingredients miniblog

Gunther

I decided to make a mini blog about cosmetic active ingredients
more aimed at cosmetic supplements ( cosmetics containing ingredients that you can find in your nearest supplement shop)

If they're legal for oral use,
they are likely legal for topical use as long as you're careful with your claimsm or lack of.

Gunther

Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo

Frank Fischer PhD  Volker Achterberg PhD  Annette März PhD  Stefan Puschmann BE Christian‐Dennis Rahn PhD  Vivien Lutz MSc  Andrea Krüger Laboratory Technician Helge Schwengler Laboratory Technician  Sören Jaspers Graduate Engineer of Medical Technology Urte Koop Graduate Engineer of Medical Technology  Thomas Blatt PhD  Horst Wenck PhD Stefan Gallinat PhD  First published: 21 February 2011https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00543.x
Volker Achterberg, Beiersdorf AG, Research & Development, Department of Skin Biology & Skin Structure, Bf. 510, Unnastrasse 48, 20245 Hamburg, Germany. E‐mail: volker.achterberg@beiersdorf.comRead the full textAbout 
SummaryBackground The decrease in firmness is a hallmark of skin aging. Accelerated by chronic sun exposure, fundamental changes occur within the dermal extracellular matrix over the years, mainly impairing the collagenous network.
Aims Based on the qualitative and quantitative assessment of skin firmness, in vitro and in vivo studies were carried out to elucidate the effects of topical folic acid and creatine to counteract this age‐dependent reduction in the amount of collagen.
Patients/Methods Topical application of a commercially available formulation containing folic acid and creatine was performed to study effects on skin firmness in vivo using cutometric analysis. Imaging and quantification of collagen density were carried out using multiphoton laser scanning microscopy (MPLSM). To investigate the effects of these compounds on collagen gene expression, procollagen synthesis, and collagen fibril organization, complementary in vitro studies on cultured fibroblast‐populated collagen gels were carried out.
Results The underlying structural changes in the collagen network of young and aged sun‐exposed facial skin in vivo were visualized by MPLSM. Topical application of a folic acid‐ and creatine‐containing formulation significantly improved firmness of mature skin in vivo. Treatment of fibroblast‐populated dermal equivalents with folic acid and creatine increased collagen gene expression and procollagen levels and improved collagen fiber density, suggesting that the in vivo effects are based on the overall improvement of the collagen metabolism.
Conclusions Employing MPLSM, dermal changes occurring in photo‐aged human skin were visualized in an unprecedented manner and correlated to a loss of firmness. Treatment of aged skin with a topical formulation containing folic acid and creatine counteracted this age‐dependent decline by exerting sustained effects on collagen metabolism. Our results support previous findings on the efficacy of these actives.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00543.x

Full text here:

http://www.academia.edu/26443494/Folic_acid_and_creatine_improve_the_firmness_of_human_skin_in_vivo

...15 volunteers, 5 in each group...

...Skin elasticity wasdetermined on the inside of the volunteers forearmsusing a Cutometer SM 575 (Courage and Khazaka, Ko¨ln,Germany) and the elastic parameter UrUe as a measureof skin firmness according to the European Group onEfficacy Measurement of Cosmetics and other topicalProducts guidance...

... The test formulation used in all studies was the commercially available Nivea Visage DNAge (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) containing folic acid and creatine...

... 7 days washoff, then visits at baseline, 2 and 5 weeks...

... Two and 5 weeks of treat-ment resulted in a significant increase in Ur ⁄  

Ue valuesto 107.5 ± 11.5% (n = 35; P = 0.0002) and 106.9 ±10.5% (n = 36; P

 = 0.0002), respectively...

Gunther

I haven't found the full study text yet (for free)

Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects.

Peirano RI1, Achterberg V, Düsing HJ, Akhiani M, Koop U, Jaspers S, Krüger A, Schwengler H, Hamann T, Wenck H, Stäb F, Gallinat S, Blatt T.

Author information

1

Department of Skin Biology and Skin Structure, Beiersdorf AG Research and Development, Unnastrasse 48, Hamburg, Germany.

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

  The dermal extracellular matrix provides stability and structure to the skin. With increasing age, however, its major component collagen is subject to degeneration, resulting in a gradual decline in skin elasticity and progression of wrinkle formation. Previous studies suggest that the reduction in cellular energy contributes to the diminished synthesis of cutaneous collagen during aging.

AIMS:

  To investigate the potential of topically applied creatine to improve the clinical signs of skin aging by stimulating dermal collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo.

PATIENTS/METHODS:

  Penetration experiments were performed with a pig skin ex vivo model. Effects of creatine on dermal collagen gene expression and procollagen synthesis were studied in vitro using cultured fibroblast-populated collagen gels. In a single-center, controlled study, 43 male Caucasians applied a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana extract, and glycerol to determine its influence on facial topometric features.

RESULTS:

  Cultured human dermal fibroblasts supplemented with creatine displayed a stimulation of collagen synthesis relative to untreated control cells both on the gene expression and at the protein level. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied creatine rapidly reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a creatine-containing formulation for 6 weeks significantly reduced the sagging cheek intensity in the jowl area as compared to baseline. This result was confirmed by clinical live scoring, which also demonstrated a significant reduction in crow's feet wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes.

CONCLUSIONS:

  In summary, creatine represents a beneficial active ingredient for topical use in the prevention and treatment of human skin aging.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22151935

Gunther

In this one they tested folic acid and creatine too
no full text

A novel treatment option for photoaged skin.

Knott A1, Koop U, Mielke H, Reuschlein K, Peters N, Muhr GM, Lenz H, Wensorra U, Jaspers S, Kolbe L, Raschke T, Stäb F, Wenck H, Gallinat S.

Author information

1

Research & Development, Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany.

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

DNA damage as a result of ultraviolet (UV) exposure plays an important role in the progression of cutaneous aging. Both folic acid and creatine have been linked to the process of DNA protection and repair.

AIMS:

This study aims to investigate the effects of a commercially available folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation to fight the clinical signs of premature skin aging.

PATIENTS/METHODS:

Both in vitro and in vivo home-in-use studies using a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy in terms of improvement of skin regeneration, protection from UV-induced DNA damage (Comet assay), reduction of wrinkle volume, and skin visco-elasticity. Furthermore, clinical evaluation and photography were carried out to determine the improvement of clinically graded parameters after treatment.

RESULTS:

Cultured full-thickness epidermal skin models supplemented with folic acid and creatine after epithelial perturbation showed an accelerated skin regeneration compared to untreated control models. Similarly, application of a folic acid- and creatine-containing formulation significantly improved epidermal turnover in vivo as evidenced by smaller corneocytes derived from the treated sites relative to the vehicle-treated sides. In addition, topical in vivo application of this formulation significantly protected from UV-induced DNA lesions, increased skin firmness, and reduced wrinkle volume compared to untreated control areas. Expert grading confirmed a significant decrease of fine and coarse wrinkles in the periocular region as well as overall wrinkles, tactile roughness, and laxity.

CONCLUSIONS:

Taken together, these results show that the combination of folic acid and creatine significantly accelerates epidermal skin regeneration in vitro and in vivo. Together with the finding of improved biomechanical skin properties, we conclude that the described topical formulation provides an effective treatment option for (photo)-aged skin.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18254806

Gunther

Folic Acid: Cellular Uptake and Penetration into Human Skin

full text here
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232803582_Folic_Acid_Cellular_Uptake_and_Penetration_into_Human_Skin

All 4 researchers work for Beiersdorf AG so there's a chance of conflict of interest.

Human fibroblasts culture absorbed folic acid
so did a 0.03% folic acid cream used by human volunteers.
BTW I wonder why they use such a tiny amount.

Gunther

The recommended use level of folic acid is 0.05%-0.2%. For intensive treatment up to 0.5% could be used.
https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/5247/formulating-anti-ageing-products-with-folic-acid