Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Should I use less hyaluronic acid in my serum?

  • Should I use less hyaluronic acid in my serum?

    Posted by MJL on December 13, 2018 at 1:16 am

    I currently make a very simple water-based serum with a few “actives” and with 1% high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

    However, I live in a dry climate and don’t really benefit from hyaluronic acid’s humectant qualities (even though I apply it to damp skin and add an occlusive on top).

    Why do I use it, then? I like using the hyaluronic acid as a “gelling agent” because unfortunately I get irritation and acne in reaction to a lot of the gel-makers/formers and gums. I haven’t wanted to use something cheaper like glycerin because it is sticky and also apparently a substance that is irritating to my skin. 

    Anyway, I have three questions:

    1) Since hyaluronic acid can only bind to so much water, would using less in my formula mean that it would more-so hold onto the water I apply it over top of, and take less from inside my skin?

    2) Does HA take up “available” or “free” water in a formula, that could be used to “hold” the other ingredients? In other words, would using less hyaluronic acid in my formula make more water “available” for the other ingredients (water-soluble powders) to be more thoroughly dissolved/held in? 

    3) Would it be overall beneficial that I use less than my current 1% concentration of HMW HA in my formula?

    Thank you for your time.

    MJL replied 5 years, 3 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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