Silk powder, niacinamide, and panthenol

Jdawgswife76

So im trying to come up with a nice NOT to thick (more like serum texture) face cream  and was just curiouse if these 3 would formulate  and function good on the skin together and provide some nice results.  Anyone have any advise or experience working with all three together in a formulation? 

ngarayeva001

Out of these 3, silk powder (proteins, amino acids) doesn’t do much and smells terribly. You will need tons of perfume to suppress this smell. Pathenol - doesn’t really do anything though you can use  a little (0.5%). Niacinamide- great ingredient that is proven to have skin benefits  by many studies. Good amount is 5%. My advice is add 5% of Niacinamide and 0.5% of panthenol in your waterphase (don’t forget your chelator, use tetrasodium EDTA to keep it transparent and watersolubld preservative), add something around 0.3% of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and leave it in peace for 3 hours. Then mix it well (with a spatula, you don’t need special instruments) and call it vitamin b serum. If it’s too thin for you, just add more HA and mix again.

ngarayeva001

If you want it to be an emulsion use the same logic but you need oil phase. Say 1% of shea butter, 3% of jojoba oil (or squalane) and non thickening emulsifier. For example glyceryl stearate/peg100 stearate and something to decrease hlb, for example sorbitan oleate (because shea is 6, jojoba is 7 if I remember correctly, and emulsifiyers mix above is 11). Don’t use polysorbate 60, or glyceryl oleate.

Jdawgswife76

Ok i only have emulsifying wax nf,  stearic acid and cetyl alcohol right now im waiting on my btms 50 and the NF has Polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol,  peg-150, and steareth-20 in it according to the INCI.  What about  Mango Butter and i only have veg glycerin right now also have a order im placing but waiting  to add a few more to save on my shipping

Jdawgswife76

I also only have disodium EDTA right  now which is a chelating agent would that be good for the serum? 

ngarayeva001

@Jdawgswife76, disodium EDTA is actually preferable for products with lower pH (lower than 8). Tetrasodium is used for surfactants and when you want to get a clear product. So it only relevant for water based serum. You are trying to make an emuslsion, so disodium is even better. I am not a big fan of emulsifiers with many components (unless it’s a polymer), so I have cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 separately. The thing is they both are thickeners (poly60 is a high hlb emulsifier but it has thickening properties).Try to play with percentages to see if you can get serum like texture. Don’t use much oil if you use low % of the emulsifier. Mango butter is ok. It is lighter than shea. So it’s about your preferences.

Gunther

Studies show topical niacinamide, creatine and folic acid have great potential.

Jdawgswife76

Im assuming for the skin as in creams,  lotions,  serums,  etc?  I actually have all of these and sounds  really great I will have to play around with these ingredients.  The creatine i haven't really heard much about in formulating. 

ngarayeva001

I really wish I could find folic acid in homecrafter quantities. @Gunther, do you know by any chance who sells it?

gld010

I would suggest using Panthenol at a lower level, or even not at all. There are global panthenol shortages due to plants in China closing and prices are jumping up. I don't think your clients will notice a difference without it. Maybe put it in at 0.01% if you really want it on the IL?

Microformulation

DSM has Folic acid available but is expensive, in large quantities and in the few cases I have used it, the results were really minimal at best.

Jdawgswife76

Folic acid or ferulic acid?  I have Ferulic Acid

Jdawgswife76

Bulk suplments has folic acid

Microformulation

1. It is Folic acid I believe that was mentioned, but I don't put much past over auto-correct. Ferulic acid is a totally different animal.

2. Bulk supplements have an oral grade (Supplements, not Cosmetic) at 10 grams for almost 13 dollars. That brings your cost to $587.85 per pound or $1293.27 per pound. That is a lot of raw material cost for an item with minimal benefit.

Jdawgswife76

I was just letting you know who had it that i could think of off top of  my head. ..

Microformulation

I understand. (above should be $1293.27 per kilo.)

ngarayeva001

I am not particularly experienced, but my observation is that outrageously expensive ingredients are not worth the money. Say, hyaluronic acid, around $40-50 for 25gr on lotioncrafter (depending on the molecular weight). You can get exactly the same result (if not better) by mixing glycerin, butylene glycol and 1,3 Propanediol for a fraction of the price. I was actually interested in folic acid, but sounds like it's another "resveratrol" (crazy price no result).

Perry

@ngarayeva001 - that's a good starting assumption.