# Hair relaxer production

Member
Good day all
I have a question to ask~
I want to get the correct formula for production of hair relaxer.
For a batch, I use:
Wax~4kg
Mineral oil~8kg
Jelly~5kg
Acetyl alcohol~2kg
Propylene glycol~half litre
Lanolin~half kg
Caustic soda~1kg
I noticed some faults in this formulation like breakages/foaming on the surface, light watery ,also its active ingredient reacts fast before it relaxes the hair
Please I need your help on what to do cos I'm still a starter.
Thank you sir.

Marysurnita

• Member
@Marysurnita Actually i don't see any hair relaxer it is sort of bad soap.
• Member
• Member
Yes, really harsh for hair
edited October 2018
Here's a starting formula you can adapt to your system. (numbers represent % in the formula)

Water (Aqua) (deionized) up to 100
Propylene Glycol 4.00

Calcium Hydroxide 5.00

Petrolatum 9.10
Mineral Oil  6.50
Polyquaternium-6 1.00
PEG-75 Lanolin 1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol  13.00
• Member
Thank you so much Mr Perry
I really appreciate
How do I convert the numbers by % to kilogram or gram?
I measure in a weighing scale before production sir
• Member
Liquid ingredients like propylene glycol, water etc I measure by litres.
Thank you sir
Decide on the batch size.  Say 100g or 100kg

Then weigh out all of the ingredients.  (e.g. 13g or 13kg of Cetearyl Alcohol)

If you want a different batch size, say 200 kg, then you would take a percentage of that.  200 * 13% = 26 g or 26kg of Cetearyl Alcohol
• Member
edited October 2018
@Marysurnita even liquid can be mesured by kg you just use a balance to know the adequat weight or use the relation: mass = volumic mass * volume.
• Member
True hair relaxers must contain either alkaline hydroxides
or thioglycolic acid.
• Member
@Perry isn’t Calcium Hydroxide should be mixed with Guanidine Carbonate?
@Lisani - it doesn't have to be but you can mix it with that if you like.

• Member
Good morning Sir,
I'm using sodium hydroxide (for lye) cos it could be found easily here. Should I measure it with the same percentage as in CaOH?
Is there any substitute for polyquartenium-6 cos its not here?
Is there also no need using an emulsifying wax and a preservative?
• Member
I want to use 100kg of water for one batch
How can I measure other ingredients to fit into it by kg or grams

For instance:
100kg of water should go with ?kg of Cetearyl alcohol, ?kg of propylene glycol, ?kg of mineral oil, ?kg of petrolatum, etc

This will enable me understand it better before making calculations by percentage for other different batches
Thanks alot sir for your time
• Member
@Perry. Please what % of Guanidine carbonate should be mixed with that formula?
• Member
Hi Mr Perry
Thank you Sir
@Marysurnita

1. If you want to make 100kg, just put a kg after the number given in the formula. Propylene glycol 4.00 means 4.00 kg of propylene glycol.

2. Yes, you can try the same amount of CaOH as NaOH but you might need to make adjustments to the formula. You have to make it and figure it out.

3.  PQ6 is a conditioning agent. So, you can find another conditioning agent or just not use one. You have to make the product and find out the answer.

4.  You have to make the formula. It's a starting formula that may or may not work for you. I can't answer your questions because without having the raw materials that you are going to use, I don't know whether it will work for you.

The formula will have a high pH so you may not need a preservative but you have to test it. Your manufacturing conditions might be such that you should use a preservative.  The PEG 75 Lanolin and Cetearyl alcohol work as the emulsion system. I don't know if you will need a more robust emulsion system. You have to make the formula to find out.

Cosmetic formulating is not something you can do by reading words on a computer screen or even in a book. You have to actually go out and get the ingredients and mix them together and see what you get. I've given you a formula that has worked for some people. I don't know if it will work for you. You just have to experiment.

• Member
I will just add that when you experiment it makes sense to work with small amounts to avoid wasting materials. But don't make batches smaller than 100 gr. It is very hard to control.
• Member
@Perry what's the required pH for relaxing hair?
Depends on what you use but pH 12 - 14
• Member
@Gunther I get around 13
• Member
Ok well understood now sir.
I will try it out but in making some adjustments in NaOH. I think I will have to try the formular with 2% of NaOH since its the most active ingredient cos 5% will be so high for it unlike in the case of CaOH
I will tell us my findings later.

In the course of research online I find out that cetearyl alcohol is a mixture cetyl alcohol and stearic acid. The mixture comes by different percentages, its either 70% cetyl alcohol and 30% stearic or vice versa. I would like to figure out the percentage that will best fit into the formular whether 70%C 30%S is best or 30%C 70%S
So glad to be part of this forum. Thanks to everyone here for your contributions. I appreciate