Raw material -> first cosmetic product. Assurance for industry novice to not go wrong way.
Hi everyone, i am new to this awesome forum and here comes my first and long post.
First of all i would like to tell that i do not have chemistry or cosmetic background and i got into the cosmetic industry by very lucky coincidence about 6 months ago.
Since then i have been only raw material supplier to some specific companies.
About a month ago i thought i will try to make my own cosmetic product ( face mask) since i really like the material i have under my possession.
Basically my product is sea mud/silt/clay ( minerals 94%, organics 5%, carbonates 1% ) with a PH of 6.8-7.2. Dry matter 35%, water 65%. INCI name Maris Limus.
I quickly ran microbiological TVC test with my base material in its natural state and the results for microbial bacteria count was 30 000cfu/g ( 3x10’3). So i figured there might not be too much of a excessive work to get microbial bacteria count compatibility under the EU Cosmetic law (category 2).
After a few days in Google and cosmetic forums i ordered ~10 different preservatives which i thought would work with my high PH and be cost efficcient, yet still marketable to nowadays greenheads/diletants in their anti-paraben, formaldehyde etc madness. Made multiple different samples with different preservatives and after 2 days of waiting i took them all to the State laboratory for testing.
Some of the results are listed below:
99% Maris Limus + 1% Geogard 221 ( Dehydroacetatic acid 8%, Benzyl Alcohol 88%, Aqua 4% ) = 460 cfu/g
99% Maris Limus + 1% Plantaserv E ( Phenoxyehtanol 90%, Ethylhexylglycerin 10% ) = 250 cfu/g
99% Maris Limus + 1% Chemikons ( 2-phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyglycerin ) = 630 cfu/g
99% Maris Limus + 1% Phenoxyethanol = 740 cfu/g
96% Maris Limus + 4% Dermosoft OMP ( Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol ) = 530 cfu/g
96% Maris Limus + 4% Dermosoft OMP + 1,5% Ecogel ( Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Xantham Gum, Pullulan) = 130 cfu/g
There were some preservative reaction results over 1000 cfu/g and some that did not react at all ( probably too low PH range ) .
As you can see with those bolded results i can really move on with my cosmetic product registration but i still have some questions to which i can not answer on my own at the moment that quickly. My inner gut told me to ask from industry experts in here. So...
Am i being too naive to think that if i mix my material with preservative which acts as a bactericide at first and then afterwards keeps the material clean from possible contamination, then it is just like that for the rest of the 30 months which i am planning to be best before ? Or is it naive and bacteria will start growing soon after ?
Secondly i have problems with my product odour/scent/smell after mixing it with preservative. It all smells like one big preservative. Can you give me some hint where i can search something or recommend me some ingredients to add into the mix to get rid of the unwanted preservative odour ? Or add some extra perfume ?
Also i did not use any emulsifier exept one sample, since i do not know for sure that i have to use one. I only could find one cold processable emulsifier with the PH working range ~7.
Can anyone tell for novice like me, should i use any emulsifier ? Does it mix preservative better with my material ? Should i use some other ingredient in order to work my preservative better or to be more ensured that my product will stay the same for 30 months ?
Sorry for making such a long post, but i really wanted to paint the bigger picutre in order to get a real help if somebody would really like to help me
Many thanks if someone will answer at least some of the questions!