Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Why is my formula sticky? Could you please review it?

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  • Why is my formula sticky? Could you please review it?

    Posted by Paulaa on July 31, 2018 at 3:47 pm

    Hi, 
    Please excuse me for such a basic question but I really would love to understand what I’m doing wrong. I’m trying to make a very light face cream but every single time it comes out sticky. I’ve reduced glycerites to minimum to check if they were the ones to blame…and apparently they are not. I’ve used 3,5%  od Dermosoft 1388 eco (INCI Aqua Glycerin Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate) as this is my best bet since it has glycerin, but from the other hand I’ve seen many creams with this preservative which are not sticky. I’d really appreciate if you could educate me here. 

    THE FORMULA

    Montanov
    68 4.4%

    sweet
    almond oil 0.5%

    Caprylic/Capric
    Triglyceride 3.5%

    Guar
    Gum 0.2%

    water 76.65%

    Allantoin 0.1%

    Niacynamide 2%

    Dermosoft
    1388eco 3.5%

    lactic
    acid 0.35%

    dermofeel
    PA12 0.1%

    AMTcide
    coconut 2%

    Vit
    E 0.4%

    Essential
    Oils mix 0.8%

    Gingko
    biloba glycerite 0.1%

    chamomile
    glycerite 0.1%

    Squalane 1.4%

    Sea
    buckthorn CO2 1.9%

    Cetyl
    Alcohol 1.9%

    Dermosoft
    1388 eco INCI Aqua Glycerin Sodium Levulinate Sodium Anisate)

    Montanov
    68 INCI
    Cetearyl
    Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

    Dermofeel
    PA12 INCI Sodium Phytate

    AMTcide
    coconut INCI
    INCI:Lactobacillus
    (and) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract

    Both
    glrycerites are preserved with Leucidal Liquid (INCI
    Leuconostoc/Radish
    Root Ferment Filtrate)

     Also, please let me know if there are any obvious mistakes in the formula apart from the sticky issue.

    Thanks! 

    ngarayeva001 replied 5 years, 7 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • dr-catherine-pratt

    Member
    August 6, 2018 at 10:25 am

    @Paulaahave you used guar gum before? Maybe you could swap to xanthan gum. Hope this helps

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 12, 2018 at 5:45 am

    @Paulaa sorry can’t add more than the previous commentator on stickiness, however a couple of notes in general. Your concentration of essential oils is too high. Essential oils are generally bad for skin. You can get away with a concentration of 0.01% but higher than this will sensitize the skin in a long run. Especially if you have phototoxic oils such as orange, lime etc. Also seems like you need more humectant (propanediol, butylene glycol etc) . Correct me if I am wrong please, but where’s your preservative system? And which form of Vitamin E is it? Tocopherol or Tocopheryl Acetate?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 12, 2018 at 5:51 am

    Regarding thickeners, can you find sodium carbomer (lotioncrafter) or acrylates (makingcosmetics gelmaker powder)? They perform better than gums. Another good option is a polymer like Sepinov EMT (goes well with Montanov, same manufacturer)

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