Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to fix pearlizer swirls?

  • How to fix pearlizer swirls?

    Posted by gunther on June 2, 2018 at 8:57 pm

    I keep on getting swirls from pre-made pearlizer, 
    it’s whiter swirls in finished products, even though pearlizer doesn’t seem to separate or precipitate.

    I don’t know what the pearlizer contains.
    The supplier doesn’t seem to know, they are waiting for the manufacturer to reply
    It’s a whitish cream or light paste.

    I also tried pre-mixing said pearlizer with Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate), but as soon as I add water, swirls appear.

    I even tried filtering the finished bodywash
    first with a coffee filter
    drip was slow, drop by drop
    and most pearl effect was gone, it just looked cloudy/opaque with just a slight pearly effect remaining
    but on stirring, pearl swirls appear again.

    Tried heating it when mixing too, to no avail.

    I tried purchasing pearlizer from another local supplier, but they might be the same product, from the same manufacturer, just different retail packaging.

    Why is that happening
    Would an emulsifier or solubilizer help?

    belassi replied 5 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    June 2, 2018 at 10:12 pm

    Sounds normal to me, isn’t that what pearl is supposed to do?

  • gunther

    Member
    June 2, 2018 at 11:32 pm

    I meant that when gently swirling pearlizer containing soaps, washes or shampoos
    you can see some whiter clouds leaving a trace, which seems to remains in place.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    June 4, 2018 at 10:24 pm

    As Belassi said it sounds like normal behaviour from a pearlizer. Do you have any photos?

  • markbroussard

    Member
    June 5, 2018 at 2:43 am

    Pearlizers are dispersible in surfactant systems, but not soluble which creates the “swirl” effect.  To reiterate the comments above … sounds normal and like your pearlizer is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

  • belassi

    Member
    June 5, 2018 at 3:33 am

    This is an image of one of our pearled shampoos. The pearl provides, in combination with coffee and suspended licorice, a metallic bronze effect. Pouring it into the hand, as in the shower, pearlescent swirls are created in a most attractive manner. This particular product uses 3% Euperlan PK-771 (a cold process pearl).
    This was an early version, we now have a properly designed label for it, but the visual effect is still the same.

  • gunther

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 3:50 pm

    Thanks but they are macro swirls, clearly visible a few yards away
    The pearlizer is supposed to be Euperlan PK 771 Benz

  • das

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 4:25 pm

    That picture isn’t clear, but that’s how it usually looks. If you don’t have cationics in your formula you can throw some styrene/butadiene to make it opaque. (I take that’s a shampoo or a hand soap).

    And it looks like you are using too much. I use it at 0.001% and the pearl effect is noticeable.

  • gunther

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 5:16 pm

    As you can see, it ain’t a regular (yet pearled) appearance
    it has some large clouds and swirls in it.

    The manufacturer brochure for Euperlan PK 771 Benz, says it’s cold-processable, and advises 3-10% concentration.

  • das

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 5:31 pm

    The pearl effect isn’t regular, that’s the beauty of it. If you want to make it white and shiny this is not the way. That is exactly what it’s supposed to look like.

    Add color to it and you will notice the difference.

  • belassi

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 5:41 pm

    That ^^^^

  • Kyle_T

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 6:25 pm

    Agreed, this is on par with the look we get with pearlizers.

  • markbroussard

    Member
    June 6, 2018 at 7:14 pm

    The pearlizing agent in Euperlan is Glycol Distearate.  I am assuming that your surfactant mix is clear, transparent before you add the pearlizing agent.  If you want a solid white pearlized product, just add 1% Sucrose Stearate ( Sisterna SP70-C ) to the water phase … it will make your aqueous phase solid white without increasing the thickness.  You will then have a pearlized solid white product.

  • gunther

    Member
    June 11, 2018 at 5:09 pm

    I even tried making brewing soap and shampoo with dark coffee instead of water
    and some swirls from Euperlan PK 771 remain, and it made the product lighter.

    @Belassi did you mix Euperlan with some solubilizer or something?
    Do you add it at the end, cold or hot?
    Thanks in advance.

  • belassi

    Member
    June 11, 2018 at 6:07 pm

    I simply mix 3% in at the end of the process, when the batch is around 40C or less. It disperses very easily. 

  • gunther

    Member
    June 11, 2018 at 6:37 pm

    Is yours a white paste?
    How easily does it disperses? Does it initially forms white clumps.

    It was supposed to be Euperlan PK771 Benz
    but packaged for retail, so IDK if that was real BASF, or copycat chinese.
    I’m glad I didn’t buy the whole drum, because this is the second pearlizer I tried that doesn’t seem to work fine.

    Does yours says BENZ too?
    I believe I got the 90s Ford Taurus version instead. All with its transmission problems, lol.
    Again, thanks for your reply.

  • belassi

    Member
    June 11, 2018 at 8:35 pm

    No, it is a thick white liquid. Doesn’t say BENZ. It disperses really easily, I don’t even need to use a mixer, just pour it in at the end while stirring by hand with a large stainless paddle.

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