What tests should I do before launching a product?

Padma

Hi,

I am so happy to be on this forum. thanks Perry!

I have always been interested in using natural ingredients on my skin. I love to make my own face masks, face scrubs etc.
recently, I have started using some exotic oils on my skin ( rose hip, tamanu, jojoba) and I come across all these lovely essential oils such as Neroli, Jasmine etc.

I always think that my friends in India would love to use these, but I know that they are not so easily accessible to people there.

few weeks back I attended a class on making facial serum and since then I have been so motivated to start my own small line of natural cosmetics.

Before I get my license and all that, I want to make a small batch of what I have learnt and distribute it to some people for some initial survey.

Can anyone help me what tests I should get done before I distribute it to some people. does anybody know of any labs who can do some tests to confirm that my formulation won't grow yeast or bacteria.
And also I want to get it certified organic. can anybody suggest on the process?
btw, I live in the US. So if someone can point me to some labs in the west coast, I would really be thankful.

Regards,
padma

Eliza

Hi Padma, a warm welcome to this wonderful forum!

I'm not in the US so hopefully others will chime in on the specifics on labs. You could also ask Mark (Microfomulations) for advice as he's an experienced cosmetic chemist in the US that helps the little guys ;)

But I don't see why you would need testing so early in the process. You are not going to sell the survey batch, right? You can see it as 'marketing research' and gathering information on how people like your product.

I would suggest signing up for the upcoming Natural Formulators Course that Perry is organizing. I think stability testing and organic certification is part of the program.

Good luck and have fun!

Padma

Thanks a lot Eliza!!

I am not going to sell my survey batch, but my only concern is people may not easily sign up to be part of my survey if no testing has been done on the product.

recently I bought a hemp seed based face pack at a farmers market and I opened the box to use it after about 3 - 4 weeks and it was completely filled with mold.

Microformulations

In my experience, here is the minimum testing (and then some alternative tests);

Mandatory-

Stability and Compatibility Testing. Stability Testing has more of an emphasis on "How the sample performs. A sample in a non-reactive container is tested both at Room Temperature and also at Accelerated Conditions (I use 45C at 85% RH). These standards are in a CTFA Guidance document which I can post.

Compatibility is very similar to stability, but in the final retail packaging. You can use compatibility in place of stability but not vice versa. Generally we do stability first so the customer knows if they can assume the risk of ordering Production and packaging. Compatibility looks at the same as stability but in addition "Does the product play well with the packaging."

After Production. Microbial Testing should be done on a sample of the produced product BEFORE it is released from QA to be packaged. We have always used an outside lab since we weren't big enough to hire a Microbiogist and we had third party verification. It generally took 4 days to get the results during which the product was kept in "QC Hold." We used this delay to also send a sample to the customer for approval.

Sunscreens need SPF Testing and Broad Spectrum testing. This is still new, but if interested, I have a document from a Webinar that better describes the details. It might be a subject for a Chemist Corner posting.

Now, these tests are nice OR may be ordered by the final retail seller. For example HSN, QVC or WalMart may request additional tests;

PET (Preservative Effectiveness Testing). In a perfect World every product would have PET Testing. This challenges the Preservative system. Why isn't it done? It takes at least 28 days and costs extra.

HET-CAM (Hen´s Egg Test – Chorionallantoic Membrane). This takes the place of the poor bunnies getting product placed in their eye! A partially incubated egg has a membrane that reacts identically to the human cornea. HSN will ask for this.

RIPT (Repeated Insult Patch Testing) A special band-aid with your product absorbed into it is placed on a subject and the irritation assessed.

Ophthamologist Testing. Have ordered this. What do they do? Hell if I know, but you get it signed off.

There are some other rare tests, but this will cover 99%.

Padma

Thanks a lot Mark for your detailed comment!! I really appreciate it.

Have you had personal experience with any of the labs listed below?
Do you recommend any lab in particular? This is like a small home project, so I don't want to go to someone very expensive.

Adamson Analytical Laboratories, Inc.
Allied Analytical Laboratory Services, Inc.
AMA Laboratories, Inc.
Biometrix, Inc.
BioScreen Testing Services, Inc.
Bria Salon & Performance Testing Center
Chemical Solutions, Ltd.
Chemir Analytical Services
Clinical Research Laboratories
Consumer Product Testing Company
Custom Analytics, LLC
Evalulab
Genemarkers, LLC
Microconsult, Inc.
North Cliff Consultants, Inc.
Q Laboratories, Inc.
Springhouse Skin Research, Inc.
Suncare Research Laboratories, LLC
TRI/Princeton

Duncan

From my POV unless the product is self preserving (High alcohol or anhydrous) PET (Challenge) testing should be considered as part of the stability testing. I certainly would not release product for patch testing without getting a clean bill of health from PET testing. Believe me a bug problem in production isn't something you can walk away from

As for SPF testing, this is very regional, and what applies to the US market, will differ for the EU, Japan or Australia

Microformulations

I agree that PET Testing should be used more often than it is and in numerous circumstances.

Now that said, it is not part of standard testing and is more costly. Only the minority of clients will order it for this sole reason it is skipped. If you tried to offer it as part of stability without an upcharge, you would lose your shirt.

I have experience with Microconsult. They are very good. What I like ius they post your results on a secure FTP Server for you and you can get them a day or so faster.

Custom Analytics are pretty good also.

Consumer Products Testing Labs we used for specific tests.

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