How does this powder product work?

gld010gld010 Member
This possible project floated across my desk the other day-- they want to dupe the following product. https://www.sephora.com/product/hydra-mist-set-refresh-powder-P428907

IL: Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsislesquioxane, Silica Silylate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Silica, Mica, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Potassium Sorbate, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491).

The description states that "Formulated with 50 percent water and glycerin, this powder creates a mist-like sensation on skin, for a seamless finish and comfortable feel." Reviewers say it feels wet and cooling upon application. But I'm sure a mixture of any powder with 50% w/w water would be a slurry or a paste, no?

I'm sure the "wet" feeling isn't from actual water (maybe the glycol?). But how would you even fit that much water into something like this? Disperse water with fumed silica and then blend that into a regular powder base?

I'm likely to put my foot down and tell them no (especially since they want to go with "natural" ingredients and I'm sure whatever gimmick this is relies on something very non natural sounding) but I'm still curious as to how this works.

Comments

  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited May 2018

    It is based on Evonik's "Powder to Cream" Technology they were pushing a few years back. Likely, they will not accept the raw materials as "natural" but there is no real alternative.


    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • gld010gld010 Member
    That's what I figured. Thanks @Microformulation

  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    It was a cool technology but honestly never went far outside of some niche products. I made a great powder to cream self-tanner for a client but that market sector is so tight on material costs that it fizzled. Really cool but too expensive.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • GuntherGunther Member
    Be careful with fumed silica as it doesn't dissolve in water (or oil) 
    so it must be a very fine powder and properly mixed to avoid lumps that may scratch the skin.

    If you still want to go that route
    at least get colloidal silicon dioxide
    that's designed to disperse in water.

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