Hello all, My name is Kyle, I am brand new to these forums. I have gotten a great deal of help reading some threads here, so first, thank you all for the help thus far. I own a line of men's grooming products and my father owns a manufacturing facility. We work in tandem, and formulate my products as a team, as I am the successor to the manufacturing facility. Currently we are working on a Matte Paste hair styling product. We had great results on our sample batches, however when scaling up, water leaching persists. This is new territory for us as we mostly focus on O/W emulsions like lotions and shampoos through.
My oil phase consists of
Peg 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Our calculated required HLB came to 10.7237
My emulsifiers consist of:
Cetyl Alcohol - 31.7622 % of emulsion
Stearyl Alcohol - 31.7622 % of emulsion
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil - 28.6885% of emulsion
GMS - 7.7868 % of emulsion
Pemulen - (No HLB, Did not include in my percentage, should I have?)
After calculating the percentages of our emulsifiers, we realize that the HLB of emulsifiers is 14.1583, way out of range to keep our emulsion stable.
Now, this is where I am stuck. I understand how to calculate 5% increments if I had 2 emulsifier ingredients, however I have four. How do does calculating differ when you have four emulsifiers?
My thoughts -
A. If I replace the Stearyl Behenate (HLB of 8.4) with Tribehenin (HLB of 4) in my oil phase, will this help bring balance to my emulsion?
B. Do I have too many emulsifiers? Should I only have two, rather than four?
C. Do I calculate the stearyl and cetyl alchohol as part of the oil phase as they are acids/esters AND count them as part of surfactants/emulsifiers when calculating, or do I calculate them separately? In other words, are Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol considered emusifiers/surfactants, or should I only be looking at them as part of my oil phase?
D. Should I have calculated the pemulin into the percentage of emulsifiers when calculting the HLB of my blend of surfactants.
E. It seems like there are more high HLB esters/emulsifiers than low, and in W/O emulsion I am aware we want it to be on the low end, preferably using emulsifiers with an HLB of 4-6. Really, outside of the GMS (HLB of 3.8) everything is above a 6. We also know that the HLB of our
emulsifiers should match or be very close the the HLB of our oil phase.
Do I simply adjust the percentage of emulsifiers until the HLB is as close to 10.7 as possible? Do I try to add another emulsifer with a lower HLB such as oltheth-2?
F. We have our formula at 60% Water. We have tried at 55% and 50% with no major improvements. Is 60% ideal?
G. We both lab and inline rotostator mixers for homoganizing, but are unsure if we should be going high shear or low, thoughts?
Conclusion: Please Help! I have hit a wall and could really use the knowledge found here. I appreciate all comments and considerations, please feel free to educate me or correct me in any way. If more information is needed, I will happily provide it.