I plan to start selling a light cream based on rainforest ingredients locally (i am in a small Latin American country, but am very frustrated with my failed emulsions. I am now trying a simple cream test batch without any preservative or actives added, just to try and get it to emulsify and look professional. It looks grainy and far from professional/smooth. I sometimes have an issue with bubbles too.
I am using
Distilled water (to make up 100%)
Simulgreen 5% - hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside
(i like how it absorbs but are there ones that are easier to work with). I wonder if I am over mixing.
Shea butter 2%
Cupuacu butter 2%
Coco butter 2%
Sweet Almond Oil or avocado or grape seed oi 6%
( i want to use a combo of 'rainforest' oils but cant try any more as it would be a waste before i can even get a stable smooth emulsion). I can buy the above ones here.
FCO/caprylic capric triglycerides 1%
Cetyl esters 0.5%
(sometimes adding) myrystil myristate 1%
I live in a backward country so most ingredients are imported from USA at huge cost. The failed tests and wasted ingredients are hurting my pocket and optimism!!
I have limited equipment but am using a professional food blender (Dynamic International MX070 Mini-Pro Variable Speed Detachable Mixer) with an ultra shear dispersion bladed welded on to one of the heads that came with the mixer (from MXDprocess USA) 1.6in diameter. (I read a lot on this forum about mixing but cant afford a homogeniser)
I add the oil phase to the water phase when both at 75deg then move to hand whisk after few minutes and put in ice bath as i do it. The thickening process seems to vary every time for some reason.
I also wanted to add gums like sclerotium gum but can't for work out how to add them to water phase and avoid foam and bubbles when heating the water phase.
I feel this emulsifier might be wrong for me/too difficult for beginners - I don't know
Any advice much appreciated as I am now out of emulsifier and need some import some more from USA but not sure if I should try an different one.
I would also love any suggestions on a good and easy to use preservative that is more 'natural' I have been using GSB with the above ingredients.
Sadly, I have no budget for any type of consultancy and just plan to sell on a small scale locally to craft shops/hotels etc