First time posting! I have been working on a light body cream and can't seem to get over one hurdle. Product mixes well and is creamy, smooth texture until it hits around 20-22C. If I heat it again it becomes creamy and smooth, but it will return to the grainy clumpy texture at room temperature.
My ingredients are as follows:
Phase A - Water, propanediol, caffeine, cetearyl glucoside, xantham gum, carbomer, EDTA, phenoxethanol.
Phase B - caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, coco-caprylate caprate, tocopheryl acetate, dicaprylyl ether, lecithin, glyceryl stearate se, isoamyl cocoate, myrstyl myristate, cetyl alcohol.
Carbomer is added slowly to water and mixed at 2500 rpms. Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. The rest of A is added and heated to ~75C.
B is added after melting shea and brought to ~75C.
AB are then added and mixed at 2500 rpms for 5 mimutes. Temp is reduced and at 10 minutes cream is nuetralized. Product is then mixed at 1400 rpms until reaching room temperature with water bath. I have tried removing the shea and other room temperature solids from the oil phase with other oils, but get the same texture result. I have checked the polarities of the lipophillics and they range from low to high polarity. My oil phase HLB is calculated at 10.6 not including the the ether, and the emulsifiers used have been calculated at 10.6. Any help, advice, suggestions would be great. I am not sure if this is a processing error or I am missing something else.