Your favorite moisturizer moisturizing emulsifier? — Cosmetic Science Talk

Your favorite moisturizer moisturizing emulsifier?

edited March 13 in Formulating
A lot of companies tout the functional properties of their emulsifiers, typically claims regarding reducing TEWL, particularly with liquid crystal emulsifiers;

"Actives and lipids can penetrate the skin more easily due to the liquid crystal emulsion’s ability to mimic the lipid bilayers in our stratum corneum, leading to a reduction in transepidermal water loss and increase in moisturization."

All things being equal - what's your favorite, or what do you think is the best emulsifier for use in "general use, works for everyone" moisturizers? The main concern being moisturizing performance, not price or long term stability.

Personally I can't say I'm experienced enough to have one, but the Montanov range seems good, been using the 68 in a sunscreen formula.



  • Still using the good old, tried and tested, sump oil and used battery acid, here.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • I’m still a novice but really like Emulgade PL68/50. Olive M 1000 is also great... except for the soaping. Mark Broussard has some good tips on reducing this.
  • To be honest, I don't really judge the emulsifiers on moisturizing properties. Lately I'm busy experimenting with polymeric emulsifiers like Pemulen TR-1 and TR-2. (I also noticed that if you use (only) one of these, you can put a 0% emulsifier claim on your product. Might be attractive for an ultrasensitive product, people that react badly to classic emulsifiers.
  • @Doreen yes it's only a part of the puzzle, but some non ionic emulsifiers are shown to increase TEWL "Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers"

    Each piece counts, so if possible you want to optimize it.

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