Regulation Update: Cyclosiloxanes in the EU — Cosmetic Science Talk

Regulation Update: Cyclosiloxanes in the EU

markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.

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  • Thanks for that. I took away from it, (1) D4 should be avoided completely (2) D5 should not be used above 0.1%. Using D5 at that level seems pointless so I have stopped using it completely.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • In the areas that I have been consulting silicones have been avoided due to market bias anyway. I have been using D5 alternatives for the last 24 months or so to meet this requirement.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • What alternatives have you been using?
  • I honestly have found that the Lexfeel line from Inolex has been the most successful. That said many companies have come out with D5 alternatives. It is a hot area, especially with the marketing bias against silicones (not really based on good science). The Lexfeel products are naturally derived and sustainable and as such meet many of the market demands. 
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • edited February 14
    @Microformulation
    Thanks for the update.
    I agree. I've tried the Lexfeel Shine, D5, N5 and 350. I'm particularly fond of the D5. All things considered I do prefer silicones however.
    I get the feeling that the bias is only getting worse. I've heard people even complaining about the silicone replacements. Lexfeel 350 for example, (dipentaerythrityl hexa C5-9 acid esters). "It is unpronounceable and sounds very 'chemical', it can never be good." :smirk:
  • @Doreen81I have experienced the same bias and attitudes from clients. Years ago there was a fallacy in Cosmetics that if a product is unpronounceable, it is bad. I think Food Babe was the worst example.

    However, I will say that over time I have seen the market evolve and grow. Many clients have shifted and are simply looking for opportunities to spotlight a supportable story and standard of what "natural" entails as well as to address sustainability. It may sound bad, but in my experience, if they don't evolve, they do plateau out at the Farmers Market level.

    The story of why silicones are "bad" is mind-boggling as a Chemist and filled with scientific errors. However, as we beat to death, "Perception becomes reality." In my experience, if you can communicate the natural sourcing of an alternative and it sustainability to your client and they run with it, you will be fine. Honestly, if they refuse to take the next step, they may not be ready.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • the European Parliament does not take these matters lightly; they employ expert committees in order to make a properly informed decision (and prevent lobbying), and if they do impose restrictions, there will be hard scientific evidence behind them, which will be made available for public viewing
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • I am not referring to these specific rulings, but a more general comment.

    For years now, the US Market has avoided these products and at suppliers conferences, D5 alternatives have been marketed heavily.

    Silicones overall in the US have had a bias that is based on pseudoscience. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have heard, "Silicones are bad, they bind to the hair and suffocate the hair shaft."  
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • The worst thing about this EU ruling, among the many, is how drastically it will affect the "standard" formulations for antiperspirant sticks and anti-frizz serums.  This affects more than 55% of formula solvent base that cannot be duplicated with any alternate, as physical chemistry doesn't allow for that. Bummer. We can only hope that North America doesn't follow suit.  
  • Honestly I wish there were more deodorants without cyclopentasiloxane in them. During my employment here I figured out that I'm sensitive to it (also sensitive to isododecane, my skin must hate volatiles), and past years of trying deodorants only to end in itchy pits within 3 days all made sense. Maybe I should start buying european deodorant?
  • @gld010
    How did you figure out that you are sensitive to silicones and not an other ingredient in the deodorant? 
  • Silicones are inert, and if am not mistaken have no allergic reaction to them!
    Any opinions on that? please share with us. 
  • I also visibly reacted to the continuous phase of a W/Si emulsion that had a lot of cyclopentasiloxane in it during colormatching. 
  • I understand that silicones tend to be inert and think that it's a poor idea to regulate them out of existence but I honestly have no idea what the other culprit(s) would be that lead me to break out in hives. Cyclopentasiloxane is the only common thread and the skin on my hand acted the same as the skin on my armpits.
  • @gld010
    I'm curious about the LOI. :blush:  You can always try to find out here what the culprit is.
    I found out here on CC that sorbates can cause vasodilation in some people. % above 0,15% make me blush. Thanks to @MarkBroussard I know this now.
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