Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Thin layer of fragrance separation

  • Thin layer of fragrance separation

    Posted by magnia on January 17, 2018 at 12:20 pm

    Hello, 

    I am making hair pomades. Have been experimenting for more than half a year, more than 150 samples done, and it seems that I like to consistency I got, but now I have problems with separation of the fragrance… I thought that maybe the fragrance itself is not good, but sometimes, the same fragrance gives perfect, matte look, sometimes small dropplets come out next day on the top of all pomade… Sometimes even a very thin transparent layer… 

    How I do it:

    Phase A: (heat to 70-75C)

    Water
    VP/VA Copolymer
    MPG
    Aloe barbadensis 
    Hydrolyzed AC plant keratin
    Phase B: (heat to 80C+)
    Lanolin
    Karnauba wax
    Cetearyl alcohol
    Emulsifying wax NF
    Ceteareth-25
    PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate
    Glyceryl stearate
    Mineral oil
    Phase C: (add to water at around 70C, mixt well)
    Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
    Fragrance
    Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

    Then I pour oils to water, mix well (with hands, because either neither homogenizator ror overhead mixer does not help, cause they cause too much bubles, and their are impossible to mix before the product is too thick to pour. The pouring to jars is quite quickly, since the product gelts solid very fast. I also tried simpple essential oil, but also, I have to put it while the product is still hot and also separated. 

    Would anyone have any idea what to do with the fragrance separation?

    ozgirl replied 6 years, 2 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • magnia

    Member
    January 17, 2018 at 12:22 pm

    Very sorry for posting three times, just the system showed error window and then suddenly notification, that posted 3 times…

  • doreen

    Member
    January 17, 2018 at 1:57 pm

    Fragrance consists of highly volatile components, you’re adding it a too high temperature. I would suggest adding it <40C at cool down.
    Phenoxyethanol is only slightly volatile, so I add it (up to 0,5%) in the heated water phase shortly before emulsification.

    For more help you should give the concentrations in %. Now we can only guess.

  • magnia

    Member
    January 17, 2018 at 4:39 pm

    Well, adding at the temperature <40 is imposible, because it has to be poured to jars at >53C, because below this, it is imposible to pour. 

  • Christopher

    Member
    January 17, 2018 at 5:27 pm

    try adding it just before pouring then.

  • ozgirl

    Member
    January 17, 2018 at 11:34 pm

    Are you sure it is your fragrance. Ethylhexylglycerin can cause emulsion stability in some cases.

    Try a batch without fragrance and see if you get the same problems.

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