Blooming Lipsticks — Cosmetic Science Talk

Blooming Lipsticks

We make natural all oil and wax lipsticks, no water.  When we use the lipstick right away, they are fine and have no blooming issues. However when they sit for a few months and are not used, they bloom. They have white fuzz on them. We make them up fresh now for our customers which solves the problem but we will be wholesaling soon and can't afford to have the products bloom on retailers shelves. What can we do to prevent this problem.  Many thanks in advance!

Comments

  • Sounds like a preservation issue. Have the "bloom" analysed to see what it is.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • Hi Belassi,

    There is no water in the product so it doesn't need a preservative.  I will send it off to have it analysed though. Good idea!

    Thanks,

    Cindy
  • Cindy - Just because a formula doesn't have water doesn't mean it doesn't need a preservative.

    Moisture can easily accumulate on the surface of your lipstick and if there is no preservative, microbes can grow at the interface.

    If product safety is a consideration, there is no good reason not to use a preservative in every type of formula.
  • That is good information Perry.  I will add a natural preservative and test the shelf life. Is there any specific preservative you recommend for lip products? I have been using Aquaguard K12 for general skin care formulating.
  • Aquaguard K12?
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • Aquaguard NK12
    INCI: Aqua, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate


    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • Thanks @Microformulation. The company needs to do a better job with SEO because if you type Aquaguard K12 in Google, nothing cosmetic related comes up. It's a water treatment material.

    @cindyhr - if the pH of the water in your system is >5.0 then that preservative won't have much effect.


  • The "white fuzz" may well be mold. You really need to send it out for micro testing.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Aquaguard K12 sounds like Schulke's Euxyl K712
    UK based, Over 20 years in Toiletries, now on the dark side, I&I cleaning products
  • I realized that this product can't use Aqua Guard because it is all oil based. I cannot find a preservative without parabens that is oil soluble. I am going to try using a anti microbial like tea tree and substituting much of the wax for Makigreen Velvet Wax which inhibits microbial growth.

    If this doesn't work I guess I will have to use an emulsifier to add in a water based preservative. I may need to change the formula to include more water or maybe glycerin?
  • Sorry, I meant that the product is all oil based and Aqua Guard is water soluble.

  • I have no experience with lipsticks but in general, I should think that the bloom is more likely to be fungal than microbial. I'd get it tested by a microbiology lab asap. Meanwhile, what to use? How about phenoxyethanol? That's solvent in oils. I'd be very wary of using Tea Tree oil on the lips. There are plenty of other EOs with antimicrobial/antifungal activity. Also bear in mind please, although we call them "oils" they aren't really; they are very complex molecules and may not necessarily disperse in a lipstick in an even manner.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
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