Stable Hydroquinone Cream formulation.

MamunMamun Member
in Skin
I'm having troubles at making a stable hydroquinone cream. I used sodium meta-bi-sulphite and ascorbic acid and also maintained the pH around 5-5.5. can any one suggest me anything how to make a stable hydroquinon cream.
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  • BelassiBelassi Member
    Not likely because it is a banned ingredient in most countries.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    in what way is it unstable?
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Just to add clarification, Hydroquinone is not banned in the US. It is a monograph ingredient however so you have to follow the FDA monograph guidelines.

    It's also not technically banned in the EU. It's just that it is a drug product that requires a prescription.

    As @Bill_Toge said, we'd need to know how your current product is unstable. 

    Here's a starting formula. 
     
    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    Sorry to assume it was a cosmetic.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • MamunMamun Member
    Bill_Toge , it discolors after 2-3 days. I need to preserve the formulation for at least 1 and 1/2 yrs.
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    What colour change did you notice?
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    @Mamun chances are the ascorbic acid is the culprit here; something like sodium erythorbate will do the same job with less discoloration
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • MamunMamun Member
    Belassi it changes to reddish brown and ultimately black .
  • MamunMamun Member
    Bill_Toge can u plz explain why ascorbic is responsible for discoloration? any other ingredient instead of sodium erythorbate?
  • em88em88 Member
    Ascorbic acid is not stable and it changes the color to yellow-orange, by transforming in L-Threonic and oxalic acid.
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZDRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ Member
    em88   i agree as i saw the problem before any posts but waited to be sure the instability was due to color change.
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    You are using actual ascorbic acid rather than one of its more complex derivatives? If so, I don't think you will ever get acceptable stability.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZDRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ Member
    I think MAP would be the best choice as ascorbyl glucoside/ etc will react with semiquinone radicals formed from hydroquinone.
  • MamunMamun Member
    Dr. Bob... is it due to the effect of pH of the media on ascorbic acid? as far as I know in the pH range of 1.0–4.4, the decomposition rate of ascorbic acid increases, while at pH 5.4–7.2, it decreases. due to alkaline pH, hydroquinone rapidly oxidized,tht's why I kept the pH of the emulsion at 5-5.5. 
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZDRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ Member
    The ascorbic acid is unstable below 7 and discolors.Rate is likely Ph dependent.I would use MAP at the the current Ph of the system:should not discolor.____https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0731708596019048
  • DoreenDoreen Member
    edited December 2017
    @Belassi
    I can understand why one would prefer ascorbic acid over stabilized forms:
    http://thebeautybrains.com/2014/05/which-kind-of-vitamin-c-is-best-for-skin-the-beauty-brains-show-episode-31/
    And it is stable in anhydrous systems (the brand CSI has 12% LAA + 98% butylene glycol).
  • amitvedakaramitvedakar Member
    Try sodium  Metabisulphite It makes cream whiter.
  • teewayateewaya Member
    I'm a year late, I see. 
    I work with HQ a lot. I include sodium sulfite at 0.1% and keep pH between 6.3 - 6.7. Never had a problem. 
    If you decide to stick to including Vit. C, you're better off choosing one of it's more stable forms such as MAP
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