What paraben-free and formaldehide releaser-free conservative to use?

handariel

Hy!
Our company is in the start to release some new products, and I need to find a paraben free and, posibly, formaldehide releaser free conservant.
What are yours opinion about that in line:
Ethylhexylglycerin,
Phenoxiethanol,
Sodium Benzoate, and/or Potassium Sorbate (my problem with this is high pH sensibility)
Methylisothiazolinone.
Because the products was maked for eye and lips, I am in a little trouble...

thanks a lot,
H.

PerryR

All of those preservatives could work but it depends on the specific product being tested. You might try either of the following.

Mackaderm GCP (Rhodia)

Spectrastat - (Inolex)

Duncan

EthylhexylGlycerin: OK as a moisturiser, and an adjuvant to a preservative system, but will be ineffective on its own.

Benzoates / Sorbates: As you mention pH is a problem

Isothiazolinones, I *Personally* would avoid these for leave on products, as I'm not reassured about the suitability for leave on use, and would be concerned about sensitization.

I've had good results with materials such as Chlorhexidene Digluconate, and I hear that materials such as Chlorphenesin are quite effective (Certainly very popular in Japan)

handariel

Hy!
Thanks Duncan for information, Chlorphenesin seems to be ok, thanks. What about phenoxyethanol? I found a product (combination of preservatives) combination of phenoxiethanol with ethylhexylglicerin. What is your opinion?

p.s.
(In my area I don`t found chlorphenesin seller:(, until now)

Duncan

Phenoxyethanol is a good preservative, and has the advantage that it is slightly volatile so it will protect the "Head space" or vacant air space above the product in the bottle. Can cause viscosity issues in detergent products, and make them difficult to thicken in certain cases. Not popular in France, where it is viewed with the same degree of suspicion as Parabens. (Disclaimer, I like it and Parabens, and I've had no problems to date)

The Phenoxyethanol/EthylHexyl Glycerin blends appear OK as a preservation system (Is this the Schulke product) I've found you need to use quite high levels in my opinion, but this really needs assessing in your own products. With preservatives, each product is an individual and the preservative system will need testing for each formulation you make

handariel

Thanks!

Yes, I`m refered to the Schulke product. So it is ok. I am happy. I haven`t got no problems with parabens (is a schulke combination too, with methyl-, ethyl-, propylparaben) in body creams, and lotions (if that was opaque or color), but when I maked lubrifiants with methylhexyl-cellulose, began my headache. (serious, its terrible). And now the new products for eyes and lips, I need to find a new preservative combination. (+ pressure of "paraben-free" hype).

I hope the Phenoxyethanol/EthylHexyl Glycerin blends will be OK for now.

Thank you very much for informations.

Duncan

Last time I was doing investigations into new preservative systems, I was having to replace Euxyl K400 in product as the EU was about to ban MethyldibromoGlutaronitrile for leave on products.

Schulke can do challenge testing for you (provided you are trying out some of their products- naturally)

Have a chat to your rep, and see if they can help

Julie

We use phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin in a lot of products, and it seems to work very well. We use it almost always at 1%, and have few problems (watch out with high-load natural ingredients). I still get a lot of complaints or questions about phenoxyethanol, because people find info on the internet telling them it's "bad," but I can't find anything that works better with any less controversy, so we stick with it as much as possible. (I can never seem to get an answer from anyone as to why phenoxyethanol is considered "bad" by some people. Is it just because it's ethoxylated?)

PerryR

A quick look at the FDA website suggests that Phenoxyethanol "...can depress the central nervous system and may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which can lead to dehydration in infants."

But I don't see any problems with it if you are not eating it.

handariel

"But I don't see any problems with it if you are not eating it."

I`m agree with that, and all is about the concentration, almoust everything could be toxic in a high concentration...

PerryR

Trying to avoid using "bad" ingredients is a difficult strategy to take. Everything can be considered "bad" if you have too much of it or are exposed in the wrong way. If formulators have to continually reformulate out the latest boogie man ingredient, there won't be many good ingredients left.

Microformulations

I too have used the Euxyl PE9010 (Ethyhexylglycerin/phenoxyethanol) with great results. In fact I have 3 or 4 PET Tests on file where it passed at approved levels (in deference to Duincan, I agree I always land on the higher end of the approved range).

Liliana

Hi guys,

In case any of you is looking for plant-based preservatives, just give me a sign.

Robert Zonis

Does anyone know at what ph level (11? 12? higher?) it is generally considered safe to leave a soap bar unpreserved? Even with a high water level in the bar?

Duncan

"Traditional" soap, ie the stuff made from reacting alkali's with triglycerides has a typical pH of around 10ish or therabouts. (pH of a bunch of soap shavings in Deionised water. Syndet type bars as far as I'm aware have lower pH.

I've not had problems with tradional soap growing anything even if they have materials like oatmeal in them.

As a general rule, even materials such as diluted 25% SLES are reasonably bacteriostatic at pH 10 and above, and do not require extra preservation

Robert Zonis

Thanks, Duncan

pma

What do you think about Boscia's formulas? Do you think the products are safe?

http://bosciaskincare.com/newsite/index.php

They don't use "traditional" preservatives... In fact, Boscia is made by an old and big Japanese company called Fancl: http://www.fancl.com.sg/brandstory_philosophy.asp So, I guess the products are safe. Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has tested any product from this brand.

Duncan

The manufacturers website doesn't appear to give ingredient listings (Quelle Surprise!) So I went onto my old friend Drugstore.com, who are very good at giving out INCI lists

Well the way to do "Preservative Free" are:

1) Adjust the pH to a bacterially inhibiting level (I've examined a UK market handwash of pH >10). Wasn't great on the skin, But it was Organic-With Non of teh nasty kemikuls yay!

2) They are reducing the amount of free water with Glycols like pentylene glycol / Butylene Glycol or Glycerin

3) Single use packs

4) Use heavily preserved materials (Detergents with high levels of preservatives for instance), but then "Omit" them on the INCI as they are "Carry overs" or "Process aids" in the materials added

I trust they are doing 1&2 as appropriate for the product. 3 is possible, but the products don't appear to be in this format. 4 is dishonest to the extreme, and I am sure they wouldn't stoop so low, although I'm aware of at least one product on the UK market that does take this approach.

pma

TKS Ducan. On the first site there are the the ingredient lists. The cleanser for eg.:

Water, Diglycerin, Maltitol, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Methyl Gluceth-10, Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate, Tea-Cocoyl Alaninate, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Lauroyl Glutamate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/leaf/stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Hydrangea Serrata Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil.

Probably number 2 here, anyway, water is still the first ingredient. (I have seen I lot of "preservative free" Japanese cleansers, but in these cleansers glycerin is always the first ingredient - not the water).

According to Paula Begoun Rosmarinus has mild preservative properties, but of course I don't believe it's enough to preserve the formula.

Eliza

My 2 cents. I think the preservatives are most likely to be featured in the botanical extracts. Most botanical extracts include preservatives but they don't need to be shown on the INCI (trade secret). It's an old trick in the 'natural' camp, just like the INCI 'fragrance'.

As for the Rosemary extract, there is some science behind it:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10937349

http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S1517-83822000000400003&script=sci_arttext

But just like you, I'm not sure it's enough. Maybe a combination of the extracts + high ph?

handariel

Hy!

In the meantime I bought the phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin complex, and it works very vell with a lot of creams and lotions, but we have a BIG problem with product which contains methylhexyl cellulose:(. When I add conservant make a white precitipitation with the mhc. I tried with all components, the problem is with mhc and conservants.

What you use for conservation of product which contains (either)cellulose? How can I avoid to appear that precipitation?

thanks

pma

Another strange product without "traditional" preservatives is from Stiefel/GlaxoSmithKline.

Physiogel Moisturizer:

Aqua, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Squalane, Sodium Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Ceramide 3

No, the formula isn't wrong - Stiefel says they only use these ingredients.

I'm not sure if I would use that If I were immunosuppressed.

Duncan

http://www.physiogel.info/int/bodylotion.htm gives a different INCI (?) to the one you probably found on that Singaporean site

Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cocos
Nucifera, Palm Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii, Olea Europaea, Hydrogenated
Lecithin, Squalane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Capryolo Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium
Carbomer, Ceramide 3

Go figure that one. I'd want to see if that has an expiry date on there. I'll see if that is available locally as I'm intrigued

pma

Here in Brazil Physiogel has an expiry date on the bottle - but all cosmetics here have E.D., even bar soaps.

Anyway, the last formula makes more sense because caprylyl glycol has some antimicrobial efficacy: http://www.cphs.chula.ac.th/J Health Res/files/FullText/23/1/kunlayakorn.pdf

pma

Update on Fancl/Boscia: I bought some product from Fancl and they have a manufactured date (day/month/year) printed on the packaging. They also have an expiry date after opening! (Usually just 30 days). And the packagings are really small.

handariel

Hello, sorry for the repeat, but is very important to me:

Hy!
In the meantime I bought the phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin complex, and it works very vell with a lot of creams and lotions, but we have a BIG problem with product which contains methylhexyl cellulose:(. When I add conservant make a white precitipitation with the mhc. I tried with all components, the problem is with mhc and conservants.
What you use for conservation of product which contains (either)cellulose? How can I avoid to appear that precipitation?
thanks
Everybody help?? Thank you very much, and sorry again for the repeat:)

PerryR

@handariel - Sorry, I'm not familiar with the reaction that you are describing. You might try to switch to HEC which may be less reactive. Are you sure it is the preservative causing the reaction with the cellulose?

handariel

Hy Perry, hanks for your answer!

Yes, I tried every solutions (I used just preservatives and cellulose at the end), and the reaction maked me a white suspect, very disgusting, mucoid precipitation. I tried it with a paraben complex too, but the same reaction :(

Anyway, thanks very much your respond!

agnoses

Glucose oxidase, lactoperoxidase with sorbitol mimic the natural creation of hydrogen peroxide by honey. Instead of poisoning people with known cancer causing chemicals such as formaldehyde, we can learn from nature.

Duncan

Biovert C works OK but can have some issues with certain thickeners in product.

Having used hydrogen peroxide in perm neutralisers and hair dyes, I'm not that keen on it either. Formaldehyde donors are safe in use IMHO, although some marketing teams take a view against them.

If you want to avoid formaldehyde you may wish to avoid cabbage and sprouts

http://personalcaretruth.com/2011/04/april-is-national-formaldehyde-month/

After eating Christmas dinner, I would certainly recommend a ban on sprouts, or as a Twitter poster described them as: "Brussels sprouts are just gnome cabbages filled with fart grenades"

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