% of surfactants in shampoo - Cosmetic Science Talk

% of surfactants in shampoo

What is the typical concetration of surfactants in a basic shampoo? I have heard suggestions of 15-40%, which is a huge range. I have made shampoos with a concetration of 40% surfactants. but I think that may be too much. Am I using way to much surfactants in my shampoos? is 20-30% a better target? 

Usually I use coco betaine, SCI powder, and Decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl lactylate

But not I want to make a moisturizing SLES shampoo/bodywash with SLES, coco betaine, SCI powder, and glycol diserate. But think that 40% concentration of these surfactants is going to be drying. 

Comments

  • It depends on how you combine the actives (wt/wt%) of each but 15--20% should be sufficient:P&G used to market Prell Concentrate in a tube which had >30% active SAA (they still may, but haven't looked recently).Main concern with high SAA is ocular irritation.
  • ok so would SLES 10% (60% concentration) coco betaine 5% and SCI powder 5% be a good amount of surfactant for a shampoo? The rest being water, cat guar, gycol diserate and thickener.
  • Should be,so make it and test by whatever means you use.
  • Don’t forget a preservative:suggest Germaben 11at 1% wt/wt.
  • of course always preservative! I typically use liquid germall plus. probably also need soem citric acid for cat guar. thanks for help and suggestions!
  • That would be enough, but you should check how much foam does the shampoo generate. 
  • 40% is definitely too high.  Your suggested formulas seems reasonable.
  • Thanks! I really appreciate the feed back! I made a shampoo that was irritating my scalp a bit. but when I diluted it i didn't have the problem. I think the concentration of cleansers was the big problem.
  • So this is my projected formula. please advise. any suggestion or does this look like a goos starting place?

    SCI powder 5%
    Coco betain 5%
    SLES 10%
    Cat guar .5%
    citric acid- until pH is 4-5

    Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Glycol Distearate (and) Cocamide MEA (and) Laureth-10 1% (premixed)

    Crothix- until desired thickness achieved

    Peg 12 dimethicone- 2%
    liquid germall plus .5%
    water q.s


  • AT pH 5 Better to use ammonium LES for long term stability:otherwise looks ok.
  • @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ  thanks! are you saying that I should aim to take the pH down to 4 instead of 5? or should I try to keep it at like 6?

    I only have SLES so I cant make the swap to ALES
  • I only have SLES so I cant make the swap to ALES
    That is unfortunate. SLES is a really crummy surfactant IMO. I base my own shampoos on ALS/ALES/CAPB and try as I may, I cannot get near the performance using SLS/SLES/CAPB, mass for mass.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • If you only have SLES adjustPh to 6 to6.5.
  • @belassi i like that combination but nearly impossible to find as a ready mix locally. am busy trying to see how i can make up some 
  • @Belassi -I thought ALS/SLS or SLES/ALES had very similar perfomance? Is this noted performance difference also true when calculated in moles active matter? ALS/ALES is not very popular in Europe  - don't know why.


  • David: I haven't tried to calculate it in terms of active matter. There is not much of a price difference for me in terms of raw materials. 20% of the blend (ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, lauryl glucoside and DEAL) + 5% CAPB = 25% whereas I cannot achieve anything like the same level of performance using sodium salts at those levels.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • Belassi do you have a spec sheet of that combo? 
  • UL Prospector
    or
    Care Chemicals
    It's very versatile. They say on the data sheet that it can be mixed at any temperature, but I usually work at about 50C because when cold, it is so viscous as to take forever to mix. Very high solids content, up to 70%. 
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • If you can't find it there is an alternate blend by TEXAPON: KD SO3 which is ammonium based. I haven't tried it myself.
    I was able to simplify our production of shampoos, body wash and liquid hand soap by adopting a single blend with various additions as appropriate.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
Sign In or Register to comment.