Formulating Toner - Steps? Xanthan gum? Tween 80? - Cosmetic Science Talk

Formulating Toner - Steps? Xanthan gum? Tween 80?

Hello lovies

I am formulating two cosmetics with cherry leaf alcoholic extract (alcohol 70%). The first one is a facial prepper, similar to a toner but without the cleasing purpose. By adding Tween 80, I expect to disrup the corneum stract and ease the way to the actives in the sheet mask that I intend to infuse with the serum.

The facial prepper follows this formula:


PHASE A

Xantham gum - 0,5% - thickening agent
Phytic acid - 0,5% - natural chelant and pH adjuster
Optiphen - 1,5% - preservative
Tween 80 (Polysorbate) - 1,5% - surfactant
Vitamin E - 1,0% - antioxidant
 

PHASE B

Essential oil - 0,15% - fragrance purpose
Rose water - 10,00% - antioxidant % antiinflamatory active
Extract - 3,50% - active

So...

1) How is the step by step? Should I mix the xantham with water then add the Polysorbate 80 and then the Vitamin E? I know Phase B is only after everything A is settle and cold.

2) I'm also worried about the Phytic Acid beacuse of the pH (which I need as a natural chelant and to regulate the pH of the preparation), in wich part should I add? Will it make the system unstable if I add in the end? Should I mix with water first?

3) What about the preservative? Does Optiphen goes along with Tween 80?

Thank you SO SO SO much!!

Comments

  • edited November 7
    First, 0.5% gum is a LOT and you have no glycerin to predisperse it. You will need a continuous duty high shear vortex mixer if you are going to disperse this directly in water. You MAY be able to predisperse it in the polysorbate but I haven't tried that myself.
    Secondly, the preservative seems too high. Rosewater contains phenyl alcohol which is a preservative. I suggest you consult a preservative specialist on this aspect.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • "By adding Tween 80, I expect to disrup the corneum stract and ease the way to the actives in the sheet mask that I intend to infuse with the serum."

    Disrupting the stratum corneum is not safe. Liability concerns prohibit me from commenting further, sorry.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • The numbers don't add up to 100%. Are there other ingredients?

    I totally agree with @Bobzchemist . Why would you want to disrupt the stratum corneum? To enhance absorption? I would strongly advise against it.
    And why do you expect a polysorbate to disrupt the stratum corneum by the way?
Sign In or Register to comment.