I am formulating two cosmetics with cherry leaf alcoholic extract (alcohol 70%). The first one is a facial prepper, similar to a toner but without the cleasing purpose. By adding Tween 80, I expect to disrup the corneum stract and ease the way to the actives in the sheet mask that I intend to infuse with the serum.
The facial prepper follows this formula:
Xantham gum - 0,5% - thickening agent
Phytic acid - 0,5% - natural chelant and pH adjuster
Optiphen - 1,5% - preservative
Tween 80 (Polysorbate) - 1,5% - surfactant
Vitamin E - 1,0% - antioxidant
Essential oil - 0,15% - fragrance purpose
Rose water - 10,00% - antioxidant % antiinflamatory active
Extract - 3,50% - active
1) How is the step by step? Should I mix the xantham with water then add the Polysorbate 80 and then the Vitamin E? I know Phase B is only after everything A is settle and cold.
2) I'm also worried about the Phytic Acid beacuse of the pH (which I need as a natural chelant and to regulate the pH of the preparation), in wich part should I add? Will it make the system unstable if I add in the end? Should I mix with water first?
3) What about the preservative? Does Optiphen goes along with Tween 80?
Thank you SO SO SO much!!