Formula for low poo shampoo - Cosmetic Science Talk

Formula for low poo shampoo

Hello, I want to make a shampoo like this http://www.devacurl.com/low-poo-curl.html.

It is designed for curly and dry haired type with very low level of detergents. Currently I have tried adding 10% cocoamidopropyl betain in a simple conditioner recipe which consist of oils and BTMS. It worked well, it came out like a thin conditioner or creamy shampoo.
Now I'm thinking to omit the btms and oils and just make a simple water based formula without oils.
Something like 10% cocoamidopropyl betain. Other addictives witch allready have is panthenol, glycerine, aloe vera. I also have wheat protein but do not like it on my hair. It's for personal use, at least for now.

Comments

  • This just looks like a basic shampoo that only uses cocoamidopropyl betain as the cleanser. a super mild and barely cleansing on at that. I would check 
    the blog swiftycraftymonkey for basic shampoo formulas and just use cocoamidopropyl betain as the surfactant.
  • I love this blog and learned lots of things. Made a shampoo with DSL mild and coco betaine in the past which is supposed to be mild. It was very cleansing but not as mild as I wanted. I turned to no poo, just conditioner since I barely use silicones. My hair looked good but not as fresh and voluminous. I feel like my hair does better in between the two, the low poo method.
  • You need to use some refatting agents.. If you don't want to use PEG's, you can use PEG-free refatting agent.  

    D.I. Pasca
    Cosmetic product safety assessor
    Formulation chemist.
    Member of  Society of Cosmetic Scientists
    All my comments are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission.


  • The ingredients you need for the formula to make it just like that one are:

    Water
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    Glycerin
    Coco-Betaine
    PEG-75 Lanolin
    PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
    Hydroxyethylcellulose
    Fragrance (Parfum)
    PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
    Polyquaternium-10
    Propylene Glycol
    Polyquaternium-7
    Aminomethyl Propanol
    Diazolidinyl Urea
    Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

    But you could get close with something like this...

    Water
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    Coco-Betaine
    PEG-75 Lanolin
    PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
    Hydroxyethylcellulose
    Fragrance (Parfum)
    Polyquaternium-10
    Aminomethyl Propanol
    (Preservative of your choice)
  • Is there any difference between using water solublt shea butter and peg-75 lanolin in this formula or a shampoo formula? I was thinking about getting peg 74 lanolin, but have never used it before in a forumla.
  • I'm not sure. I've not compared ws Shea Butter with PEG-75 Lanolin. They are both blends of lipid materials with similar chain lengths so they might work the same, or maybe not. You have to compare to know for sure.
  • edited November 11
    I think that I can make an oil water soluble by using polysorbate. I have poly 20 and I think I can use for example plain castor oil or olive oil with poly 20. I'm not sure for the ratios though....

    EDIT: I found this http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.gr/2011/01/question-how-to-use-polysorbates-in-our.html
    What about using equal parts of castor oil with poly 20. Based on ingredients I have right now I could make something like:

    Water
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine
    Glycerin
    Polysorbate 20
    Castor Oil 
    Panthenol
    Guar gum
    Fragrance (Parfum)
    Phenoexytehanol
  • Yes you can but it will suppress the foam.
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • Well I tried this recipe yesterday. It was quite foamy, I guess the polysorbate contributed to this. It cleaned very well, I had this squeaky feeling on my hair, which is maybe too much for my dry curls. Until now I used to make a simple conditioner with BTMS and 10% betaine which was more slippery but still had good cleansing properties, at least on me. 
  • You might like to try adding 1% of Lamesoft PO-65 (gives softness) and Polyquart H-81 (volumiser, film former, increases shine)
    Design of anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics. In-house label and box design capability.
  • eish BASF does not stock POLYQUART H-81 locally 
  • I support the Lamesoft. tried it at 1% and it worked great in a shampoo for dry hair!
  • I do not have lamesoft right now, have used it in the past though. What about liquid leqithin, I have plenty of it (sunflower) and found it in lots of hair products...
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