cream compact query - Cosmetic Science Talk

cream compact query

Hi Im just needing some advise with a cream eyeshadow compact formula. The formula is a mixture of dimethicone oils, hydrogenated polisorbutene, ozokerite wax and micas. My problem is that the formula tends to want to separate when getting too hot and the wax and oils come to the top if not agitated continually. Yet I need to get it to a specific temperature to be able to pour it into compacts but when too hot has this issue and then goes the other way..too cold can't pour!!!! help please!! - 

Comments

  • First thing to check is if your pigments are ground finely enough to suspend properly in your product when it's hot. The fact that it's "separating" and needs to be constantly agitated tells me that this is likely the first problem you need to solve.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • They Are micas. Do you suggest grinding the micas?
  • If you are only using micas, then no, don't grind them. But they still need to be properly dispersed. (I'll also point out that if you're getting color solely from colored mica, you are spending way more money on raw materials than you need to.)

    Since you can't grind micas without losing their iridescent properties, you are going to have to increase the suspending power of your base instead. Most people use bentonite gels for this purpose.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
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