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Hi! Im a 26-yo cosmetology (yes, not chemist) student. In our school we have this programme where we can try out being entrepneurs for a year. People who attend usually work by making treatments to customers, but I wanted to make some cosmetic products (solid shampoo, solid conditioner, soap, solid lotion for body and maybe one for face too).
My products will be (if this works out) anhydrous, and somehow I had this idea that it would be fairly easy. Turns out its really science, and I might be a bit more ambitious than I should...
I have been reading swift crafty monkeys blog for years, made some products, but never really thought about the chemistry. Now when Im forced to think about the chemistry, im more lost than the Grinch at christmas!
I made a solid
shampoo bar formula based on this guideline made by swift crafty monkey:
50 to 65% powdered surfactants
10 to 26% liquid surfactants
2 to 7% bar hardener like stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, or sodium lactate (liquid)
1 to 3% emulsifiers (usually e-wax, but BTMS would double duty here)
2 to 7% conditioning agent like Incroquat CR or BTMS
2 to 3% butters - shea, mango, cocoa
1 to 2% hydrolyzed proteins
1 to 4% silicones - dimethicone at 1 to 2%, cyclomethicone at 1 to 2%
.5 to 2% panthenol
1 to 2% fragrance or essential oils
0.5% to 1% preservative
and my formula is:
6% stearic acid
10,5% Coco glucoside
57% Sodium cocoyl isethionate
13% Cocamidopropyl betaine,
3% Olive wax
2% hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% essential oils
Turns out the olive wax does’nt work ’cause its not cationic. Turns out the sodium cocoyl isethionate is not considered natural (tho its made from coconuts and is readily biodegradable according to the msds). Turns out that much stearic acid might make some funny things to the foam. Turns out I dont undestand anything.
Few things that
are important regarding the shampoo bar:
-It needs to be natural. Well, not totally natural, but NO sulfates, phosphates, needs to be biodegradable, cant be toxic to aquatic creatures nor nature. If it could be made by ecocert products would be a big plus!
-It would be nice if the ingredients would be cost effective
-Nothing too difficult
-Does'nt need to be too conditioning, but should offer nice cleanse
-Also sensitive people could use it
Have I bitten more than I can chew? Im reading and trying to learn all the time, but it seems its not enough!
I try to make the formulas and discover the ingredients as much as I can, but Im not a professional and I hope I could get a little advice and knowledge from here regarding my own formulas