Hi All, I was wondering if anyone in the forum has had experience formulating water in oil creams, specifically for hair styling and could share any experience or suggest any improvements. I realise this topic has been covered before but I can't find any information that has helped me solve the issues I am facing.
The benchmark is Brylcreem which I have completed 10 x freeze thaw cycles on and no separation is observed at all.
My formulation is:-
A - mineral oil 27%
A - beeswax - 2.5%
A - Lanolin Alcohol - 0.4%
A - Glyceryl Stearate - 0.5%
A - Stearic Acid - 0.4%
A - Hydrogenated Rapeseed oil - 0.5%
A - Hydrogenated Castor oil - 0.4%
A - Phenoxyethanol - 0.4%
A - Benzyl Alcohol - 0.4%
B - DI water - q.s
B - Potassium Sorbate - 0.2%
B - calcium hydroxide - 0.3%
C - Perfume - 0.25%
C - Tocopherol - 0.2%
C - Hydrolysed Wheat Protein
I have tried a couple of methods both hot/ hot and hot/ cold
1. Heat both phases to 80C.
2. Add B to A slowly with homogenisation
3. Once an emulsion is formed cool to 50C with stirring
4. Add C's and homogenise
1. Heat phase A to 80C
2. Mix phase B at ambient
3. Add phase B to phase A slowly with stirring
4. Add C's homogenise
I do not see a real difference in terms of viscosity, appearance or stability using either method. The issue I have is that after 1 freeze thaw cycle I am seeing slight separation of the water phase (a few drops) and after 3 cycles significant separation of the water phase. So far I have not observed any stability issues at elevated temperatures.
I have tried tweaks to the oil (23 to 30%) and beeswax levels (2 - 3%) and have also tried salts and glycol in the water phase but have not been successful in solving the freeze thaw stability issues. @Perry
have specifically mentioned the importance of the manufacturing process so I am wondering if my issues lie here? I.e mixing time and temperatures to fully saponify the beeswax.
I have also tried including W/O emulsifiers like Glyceryl Oleate and Sorbitan Isostearate. Whilst this solves the issue it changes the performance of the product and the comb through is too long and doesn't break quickly like a traditional hair cream should.
Any advice or pointers would be greatly appreciated, many thanks in advance.