Unorthodox water based pomade - Cosmetic Science Talk

Unorthodox water based pomade

edited July 27 in Formulating
Hi everyone

Me again

I am trying to create a water-based hair ointment, but not like the classic, if not an emulsion type like this:

 https://www.pomades.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5/thumbnail/e2f8e5b1fddd917d63c2d528f85a1bc4/h/r/hr_465-272-01_shear-revival-crystal-lake-water-based-pomade-2.jpg

In this forum I found that someone else was trying to do and wrote this formulation:

 Water          43,86%       

E-wax         20,18%        
Beeswax      11,04%         
Karite            2,00%          
PEG40 HCO    13,6%         
Jojoba oil     6,14%                        
Essential oil  0,88%
Preservante   0,4%         
pvp k30        1,0%  

I try to replicate, but replace the emulsifying wax because it is very difficult to get where I live. I have replaced it with polysorbate 80.The emulsion takes a cream coloration and a consistency to butter but it happens that the emulsion undergoes a cremation and I do not know how to solve it very well

i think about maintaining the mechanical agitation by adding the aqueous and oily phase for a longer time but I do not see the result. Is it possible to solve it by increasing the percentage of surfactant? Or maybe, if I add other emulsifier could work?

What do you advise me ?


Comments

  • Honestly, it drives me mad to see these formulae with 'EWax'. What the hell is 'EWax'? It is apparently supplied by various home craft suppliers as some mixture of heaven knows what. So any time anyone mentions 'EWax' I just switch off, frankly. But I will say one thing. Your substitution is not adequate.
    Special interests: anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; sulphate-free shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics.
  • edited July 27
    @Belassi
    According to what I understood in that publication, According to what I understood in that publication, the Ewax is the abbreviation that the author gave it in that "formulation" to emulsifying wax nf 

    I replace the emulsifying wax with polysorbate 80 when comparing its hlb value



  • edited July 27
    Now the original formulation isn't such a bad idead considering that the ingredients in a commercial product like that are:

    Aloe Barbadensis Juice, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Emulsifying Wax NF, Carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citrus sinensis (Blood Orange) Oil, Fragrance, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E Oil), Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol
     
    Why the substitution is not adequate? @Belassi

  • Why the substitution is not adequate? @Belassi 
    - You have discovered for yourself that it isn't!
    Special interests: anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; sulphate-free shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics.
  • edited July 27
    @Belassi
     Well, I understand that the phenomenon of cremation happens because the oil particles are less dense than the surrounding environment (Water), so they tend to escape the environment and reach the surface of the mixture, and that this Can be solved by increasing the viscosity of the emulsion

    The emulsifying wax nf is a mixture of polysorbate 60 and cetostearyl alcohol. The function of the polysorbate 60 is to be an emulsifier and the cetostearyl is an emulsifier and is an agent which increases the viscosity of the mixture (information of "handbook of pharmaceutical excipients")

    Then I would only be replacing the function of emulsifier but not viscosity, apparently

    What could replace the emulsifying wax nf? (In my country it is difficult to get it)
  • I think you mean cetearyl alcohol. That is a substance that is usually really easy to obtain. If not, you can mix cetyl and stearyl alcohols. But why use a hobby product anyway? A combination of the hydrogenated castor oil and cetearyl alcohol should work fine, when you get the proportions correct.
    Special interests: anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; sulphate-free shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics.
  • thanks so much, i will try it
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