I've gotten enough feedback from customers that I want to take another look at my shaving cream formulation and see if I can make some improvements! If you have any suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them!Ingredients:
Water, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin,
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, fragrance, Triethanolamine, Sodium
Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA
Firstly, I want to change from Coconut Oil to Coconut Fatty Acids in the near future.
Secondly, I am reevaluating the amount of glycerin - I've researched and found numbers between 5-15%. I'm currently at 5%. Any suggestions or observations? My formula needs to be more slick and have more cushion. I wish I had a copy of Harry's Cosmeticology, 7th Edition Chapter 12 on Shaving - I'll keep looking as I read it was a great source!
Thirdly, I'm using a KitchenAid mixer with a hook. The wire beater adds air - not a good thing but the hook doesn't always homogenize well enough. Any suggestions for better equipment that isn't too expensive?
Fourthly, I am using a single phase - oils heated to 160 degrees- water phase added - stirred until water is incorporated in about 10 minutes - covered and let rest for 24 hours. Would a two phase be more beneficial for this product?
Fifthly, should I be letting the mixture settle and "rest" for a few days before homogenization rather than doing it the next day?
Sixthly, I am currently leaving 5% of the oils unsaponified (superfatting) but found a book suggesting only 3.5%. Any suggestions?
Seventhly, my current formula sometimes turns out to be too pasty. Several old formulas have the water phase and the oil phase at the same amount - 45% in some formulas. Any suggestions?
Just as an example here's a formula that was posted here on this board a couple of years ago and it is amazingly quite similar to mine:
Stearic acid = 30.00%
Coconut oil = 10.00%
Palm Oil = 5.00%
Caustic potash = 7.00%
Soda caustic = 1.50%
Glycerin = 10.00%
water = 36.50%
I'm 61 years old, I have worked as hard as I possible can on this project and I want it to be the best that it can be! I must succeed with this so any help and assistance you can give would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time and attention to this!