Pressing Eye shadow formula

Hello all,
okay so i have been making my own eye shadow for a few months now and some have been amazing and some have been not so good. I want a very good Matte Eye shadow formula. I have researched and read upon the ingredients in other people eye shadow formula.  i am starting small so i normally get all my products from TKB, makingcosmetics, bulkapothecary and etc. so i will list a few ingredients and hopefully i can get some advice on them before i purchase more product that i don't actually need i have spent over $1500 US dollars on products. Also a ratio of the amount of that ingredient i need would also be awesome, main goal is to be very pigmented and not have so much fall out! I am a Newbie to all of this  :)

Ingredient group 1:  Rice Powder, Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, Kaolin clay,Satin pearl mica, Magnesium stearate, mica coated with carnauba

Ingredient group 2: Mica, Dimethicone, Boron Nitride, Nylon-12, Zinc Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Zinc Myristate, Glycerin, Silica, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Isopentyldiol, Lauroyl Lysine, Phenoxyethanol, Polysilicone-11, Tocopherol

ingredient group 3: Mica, Zea Mays Starch [Zea Mays (Corn) Starch], Silica, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Stearyl Stearate, Cera Alba [Beeswax], Methicone, Microcristallina Cera [Microcristallina Wax], Behanic Acid. 

Ingredient group 4: Talc, Mica, Mineral Oil, Kaolin, Titanium Dioxide, magnesium Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Lanolin, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.  

Mixing tools that i already have: 3 Coffee Grinders, 4 Herb Grinders, Mortar and pestle , Normally i mix all the products that are dry together including the colored mica or iron oxides, then the liquids i mix in one and spread along the pressing pans and i had the dry ingredients, i mix well until the product is full mixed, after i tap on a hard surface to even it out before i press it! Which is also a problem, i dont want it to be too wet so if it looks wet i normally add more of the mixed dry ingredients to the top and spray with alcohol and press once again. 

my liquid binder contains : 
Isopropyl Myristate, Dimethicone, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, and Alcohol 
 
I have not tried all the ingredients listed above i have only done group 1 using the liquid binder. 


Comments

  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    I'm going to need specific formulas with percentages before I can help.

    Alternatively, there are good starting formulations available on the web.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • okay here is the formula with the percentages , on group 4 i took the products Isopropyl Palmitate and Lanolin, to do some research, there is a product called IsoLanolin. It has both ingredients. 
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    What program did you use for this?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • An online software ,  http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/Ingredient_Formula_Percentage_Calculator/865     @Bobzchemist
    it was delivered in text format so i put it in a chart i thought it would be easier to read. 
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Interesting.

    Anyway. looking at formula 2, there are a couple of things I'd change. 

    First, Parabens need to be no more than 1% total.

    Second, lower mag stearate to 3%

    Q.S. with pigment (ground well) and you'll be 95% there. 
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Thank you so much @Bobzchemist ; :) 
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