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I have been formulating hair clays at home; I am hoping to sell them to local hair salons as a small business. I have a formula which I am pretty happy with as far as texture and pliability. It is as follows
Petrolatum ~30% HLB
I was hoping I could ask advice on two points I have been having issues with:
I have tried adding Soya Lecithin as an emulsifier which I selected as I initially wanted to be natural, and I worked out it should have a good HLB value for Petrolatum and Beeswax. However my clays seem to hold stability without this emulsifier completely (over 3 months and counting). Soya Lecithin added ~ 1 w/w % seem to makes no difference in wash out ease or product stability. I will likely experiment with higher weight percentages.
This makes me question:
1) The emulsifiers in commercial products are primarily there to aid washing out? (My product currently does not wash out very well). Is the best way to select a good emulsifier for washing out to go for an emulsifier in the HLB range of 8 -16 to produce an oil in water emulsion? Cetearyl Alcohol for example at HLB 15.5?
2) I cannot get the clay mix to smell nice, even with 5 drops of blueberry fragrant oil in 40g of product. Is there a reason for this? I was expecting to be able to add only ~1% w/w essential oil (obviously these oils are expensive). Now planning on going for a citrus/floral scent with cheaper components potentially D-Limonene and Linalool. But can only find the D-Limonene as a solvent and cannot seem to buy linalool anywhere.
Example of a commercial formula I admire trevor sorbie hair clay.
Ingredients: Kaolin, Petrolatum, Cera alba (Beeswax), Elaeis guineensis ( Palm) oil, Theobroma cacao ( Cocoa ) butter, C12-13-pareth-3 (Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent), Cetyl dimethicone (emollient), Parfum, Isopropyl myristate(emollient, thickening agent), Propylparaben (preservative), BHT (preservative), Hexyl cinnamal (aroma substance), Butylphenyl methylpropional (aroma substance), Linalool (aroma substance), Limonene (aroma substance).
Appreciate any and all help and will try recontribute to the community from my personal experiences.