Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Turning a body butter into a shaving cream

  • Turning a body butter into a shaving cream

    Posted by chemnc on April 19, 2017 at 12:45 am

    We have a body butter everybody loves, and I would like to turn it into a shaving cream. Do you all think that adding Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine or similar surfactant would do it?

    johnb replied 6 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 19 Replies
  • 19 Replies
  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 3:17 am

    Try it


    Sultaines are mild and should give ample foam from an aerosol.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 6:49 am

    There is a lot more to shaving products than merely adding any old surfactant into any random cosmetic base.

    Check on the LOIs of marketed products before you proceed much further.

    Shaving creams are much better formulated with a soap as primary surfactant to soften the beard hair. This softening is not achieved with synthetic materials.

    Even aerosol shaving foams have a soap as primary surfactant and those that do not are on the market for a very limited time.

  • chemnc

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 11:43 am

    Yes, I can introduce a soap easily but many products are just too soapy. 

  • johnb

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 12:56 pm

    What do you mean by “too soapy”? The soap is present in these products as a functional ingredient and that is to soften the hair in preparation for the razor. Synthetic detergents do not do this successfully as you will see by observing the ingredient lists of products currently on the market.

    You asked for our thoughts, I gave mine - after a number of years involved in formulation and manufacture of this type of product.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 1:39 pm

    This is exactly why it’s really helpful to make a list of desired attributes before you start a new product development process. It’s also helpful to split that list into “required”, “wanted but not critical”, and “nice-to-have” categories.

    Is beard hair softening a “required” or a “wanted but not critical” attribute? Only you (and/or your marketing folks) can answer that question. Johnb and many major manufacturers think it’s “required”, but it’s your choice.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 1:44 pm

    If you don’t need a softened beard there is little point in using a “shaving cream”. Just use your original product.

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 2:22 pm

    Bob is correct and based on Marketing claims list needs and wants.Old absolutes do not always follow contemporary markets.Its your call with your marketing/positioning!

  • johnb

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 2:40 pm

    The ultimate arbiter in marketing any product is the buyer and repeat sales.

    If a product doesn’t work there won’t be many more sold after the initial purchase and you may even get complaints - with a diminution of reputation.

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 2:49 pm

    repeat purchase can be monitored by in-store Bases market research test:you will always get complaints no matter how good product is but if you monitor them you will find trends for product improvements based on consumer usage attitudes and changing demographics.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 3:20 pm

    DRBOB, I agree with your observation but isn’t it better to avoid any humiliation by having a product that is effective before it reaches the marketplace

  • drbobverdient-biz

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 3:27 pm

    Yes of course but a Bases test is pre-market introduction and can be conducted together with a market research Test either monadic or versus a benchmark.There are no absolutes but the latter will provide you with a solid go/no-go decision based on product attributes and re-purchase..

  • chemnc

    Member
    April 19, 2017 at 10:42 pm

    Thank you for all the input. Not very familiar with this area, but I see a number of formulations emerging that don’t contain soap, so I’m curious.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 20, 2017 at 7:00 am

    I am also curious about soap free shaving creams. Can you name some, please?

    As people seem to think I am writing rubbish here, I have also found this:

    http://sharpologist.com/2012/03/anatomy-of-a-shaving-cream.html

  • chemnc

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 2:07 am

    I don’t think you are writing rubbish at all. I’m just curious about what’s coming. When you get a chance please check Seppic’s Save Water formulation. No idea whether it works.

  • microformulation

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 4:21 am

    Harry’s Cosmeticology does a great job in explaining these products and outlining how to develop a standard product. Very much a saponification process. In Production, accounting for an replacing water loss is important. It is also (as Soap Makers can attest) an exothermic reaction so monitoring heat can be critical.

  • microformulation

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 4:36 am

    Here is a small selection from Harrys that should be helpful.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 5:28 am

    I have seen the outline of the ingredients of the Seppic idea and I can say that the whole purpose of providing that information, Seppic are promoting the sale and use of their own raw materials. Practicability, performance and, very importantly, cost are way down their list of requirements.

    With all due respect, you are not in the market to promote innovative products like that and to even think about selling something so different without a huge marketing backup is doomed.

  • chemist1

    Member
    May 9, 2017 at 2:35 pm

    Possibly try Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate.

  • johnb

    Member
    May 9, 2017 at 2:56 pm

    For numerous reasons outlined above, a lone synthetic detergent would not be very successful as a shaving cream.

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