Organic Vegan Cosmetic Line in the UK - Cosmetic Science Talk

Organic Vegan Cosmetic Line in the UK

Hi, I want to start an all natural organic cosmetic line starting with liquid lipsticks/ lip stains and I'm looking for a base formula/ guide for a newbie like myself similar to the ingredients Kat Von D Everlasting Liquid lipstick and Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche lipsticks. Can anyone help with this, I want to create some test samples.

P.S I am also interested in possibly Private Labelling through the factories they manufacture in as I am really in love with thier product, can anyone help put me in the right direction?

Comments

  • - - - and your payment terms are?
  • unfortunately, due to the nature of these products, it impossible to create a product like this which is both all natural and performs to the required standard; one reason, and this is by no means the only one, is that cosmetic pigments are all to some extent artificial

    it's a bit like trying to built a house that's by the sea but also located near Leicester city centre - you can have one or the other, but not both
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • @johnb I don't quite understand your question.  @Bill_Toge Thankyou for your insight I didn't know that maybe if I stay on the lines of organic, I just want them to be vegan friendly and cruelty free at the end of the day but more or less animals cruelty free. Thank you for the insight. Can anyone help me with formulas/base?
  • Has anyone used pole-cosmetique?
  • I haven't used Pole-Cosmetique and cannot help with the project as I'm not taking on formulation projects.

    But perhaps this might help in your quest to develop your product.  As @Bill_Toge says, legal colorants are limited and pretty much all of them synthetic.

    Companies that sell products like you've described are just using marketing tricks to convince people they've made something special. These products aren't special, less cruel or safer.  

    Let's examine the ingredient list of one of the products you mention.

    Bite Beauty Amuse Bouche lipsticks

    Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil**, Glyceryl Rosinate*, Cera Alba (Beeswax)**, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil**, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter**, Triisostearyl Citrate*, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil**, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax*, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil*, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil**, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax**, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Cera (Wax)*, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil*, Flavor (Aroma), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax*, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax*, Polyglyceryin-3*, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil**, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract**, Silk Powder*, Pearl Powder*, Glyceryl Oleate*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables*, Trans-Resveratrol*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil**, Almond (Prunus Dulcis) Oil**, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil**, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil**, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil**, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil**, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil**, Siraitia Grosvenorii (Monk Fruit) Extract*. +/- May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)*, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)*, Carmine (Ci 75470)*, Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (Ci 19140), Yellow 6 Lake (Ci 15985), Red 40 Lake (Ci 16035), Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 7 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 27 Lake (Ci 45410), Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410), Red 30 Lake (Ci 73360), Red 33 Lake (Ci 17200), Manganese Violet (Ci 77742)*. 
    * Natural 
    ** Organic

    The ingredients can be segmented into three categories, the stick ingredients, the colors, and marketing ingredients. 

    Stick ingredients: These are the same type of ingredients everyone uses.

    Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Rosinate, Cera Alba (Beeswax), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Triisostearyl Citrate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Cera (Wax), Polymethyl Methacrylate, Castor Oil, Glyceryl Oleate

    Colors: All cosmetic companies use these

    Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891)*, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)*, Carmine (Ci 75470)*, Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (Ci 19140), Yellow 6 Lake (Ci 15985), Red 40 Lake (Ci 16035), Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 7 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 27 Lake (Ci 45410), Red 28 Lake (Ci 45410), Red 30 Lake (Ci 73360), Red 33 Lake (Ci 17200), Manganese Violet (Ci 77742)* 

    Marketing ingredients: These are BS ingredients that have almost no measureable impact on the performance of the product.

    Siraitia Grosvenorii (Monk Fruit) Extract*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract**, Trans-Resveratrol*, Silk Powder*, Pearl Powder*, Flavor (Aroma), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax*, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax*, Polyglyceryin-3*, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil** , Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables*, , Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil**, Almond (Prunus Dulcis) Oil**, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil**, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil**, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil**, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil**, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed Oil**, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil**, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil**, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil* 

    There is nothing special about their products.  They are not more natural, they are not less cruel, and they are not safer. 
  • also, that list of ingredients perfectly highlights the considerable legal and scientific grey area/minefield around the definition of 'natural'

    I'm not one for gambling, but I'd bet actual money that glyceryl rosinate, triisostearyl citrate and hydrogenated vegetable oil are not found in nature, even though they're manufactured from materials which are (if you don't count the catalyst used for hydrogenation)
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • Exactly.  Even Titanium Dioxide is found in nature but (at least in the US) the only allowed TiO2 in cosmetics is the synthetic kind
  • @Perry: Oh wow so according to what you are saying most ingredients are default across most cosmetic makeup products and are not completely natural, they still have to go through a process to be used cosmetically. I feel I understand it that way. May I ask in regards to performance are the staple ingredient list applicable for liquid lipsticks/stains? Can you dissect this list following: Isododecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Polyethylene, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dicalcium Phosphate. 

    What would I need from that list if I was to create my own test batch?

    For health and safety is it best to approach a formulator and how do I find these type of cosmetic chemists to help me?

    With Private Labelling and contract filling, if I create a test formula can you get your chosen factory to use this to fill your mass order of units?

    Can you just tell a factory straight you want a formula the same as so and so but tweak it by adding a fragrance or oil or so called marketing ingredients?

    Please any little helps I'm really trying to get my head around making a good quality product.
  • @EbonygemstoneBeauty "With Private Labelling and contract filling, if I create a test formula can you get your chosen factory to use this to fill your mass order of units?"

    this depends on whether they already have the requisite materials and packaging in stock

    if they don't, they'll have to obtain a certain amount of these to fulfil your order, and depending on the size of your order, they'll have to underwrite and store the remainder of the non-stock materials once your order is complete; in general, if that stock isn't used up by the time it reaches the end of its shelf life, you'll have to pay for it

    "Can you just tell a factory straight you want a formula the same as so and so but tweak it by adding a fragrance or oil or so called marketing ingredients?"

    this depends on whether they already have a formula matched the so and so in question; if they don't, they'll either have to invest R&D time (if they have a development lab within the company) or hire a consultant (if they don't), and whether or not they choose to do so will depend on how much business you'll potentially be giving them


    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • edited March 20
    To explain my first reply.

    I got the impression that you wanted development work carrying out to formulate products according to the criteria you laid out in your post.

    It is unreasonable to expect anyone here to carry out any formulation work for free so it is reasonable to offer some initial incentive or at least enquire about fees that might be levied.

    However as has been explained in further posts in this thread, your idea or dream has been quashed by having explained to you the reality of cosmetics ingredients and their origins.

    Something that has not been mentioned; some of the listed ingredients are of animal origin - beeswax, silk powder, pearl powder and carmine (which is made from crushed beetles).
  • Gentlemen, thankyou for clarifying the marketing strategies/ reality of the industry and how it works. Please understand I am a newbie to all this information, but it does not deter my sheer passion for the colour cosmetics industry itself. As a rule animal cruelty is banned here in the UK/EU across the board and that has already been decided as one of my business values. Cruelty free. I also know I have the option of keeping the majority of the ingredients organic aswell. 

    @johnb: I completely understand you now as in payment/fee enquiries. If we could take this formulation project to the private messages or via email it would be better, thank you. 
  • I am completely retired from work myself. I wanted to clarify with you for others who may be interested.

    Please be aware of other comments made in regard to ingredients and their provenance, though.
  • Best way to start up is to find private label companies and evaluate the formulas they already have available, which should be fairly good. Pick ones you like and start marketing/selling. Custom formulation can come later.

    In my opinion, success for a new line is 80% marketing/sales and 20% formulation/packaging. An amazing formula in awful packaging with minimal marketing won't sell, but a mediocre formula in mediocre packaging with great marketing can easily be very successful.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • @Bobzchemist: Thankyou, Thankyou and Thank you
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