Micro encapsulated retinol - how? - Cosmetic Science Talk

Micro encapsulated retinol - how?

I'm looking at a PTR formula with:

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, SQUALANE, WATER/AQUA/EAU, RETINOL, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, BISABOLOL, LECITHIN, POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, POLYSORBATE 20, ALCOHOL.

Is this really microencapsulated or is it simply a dispersion of oil droplets with retinol in silicone not giving any time release effect?

I see some companies use "1% micro encapsulated retinol" btw, but it's impossible to know how much retinol that is equal to. Making cosmetics sells microencapsulated retinol with 0.005% retinol..




Comments

  • I always think that microencapsulation (especially microcapsules made by coacervation) is a good way of throwing ingredients into the trash without them ever having a chance to show their effect.

    You will find that the vast majority of microcapsules in any product remain as just that - microcapsules still containing their payload - even after use.
  • Thanks John, good point, judging from the ingredients this doesn't seem to be much of an encapsulation, just a droplet dispersion.

  • I am not an expert on this but have make liposomes by mixing retinol with lecithin at high speeds. It may not have any effect on whether the retinol is "time released" but my thoughts are it helps to stabilize it since it breaks down easily.
  • Dear zink,

    Indeed, the formula you send corresponds to a simple dispersion. Liposomes are a good option of soft encapsulation, but it will not give you any efficiency in term of skin penetration. Check the bicosome technology (www.bicosome.com), soft encapsulation able to target the layer of the skin where you want your active to be active.

     

    Bests, 

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