Just hired a cosmetic chemist: Should I just trust him and let him do his thing?

Hi everyone,

I posted a while back ago stating that I was interested in formulating a Beard "Enhancing" Cosmetic. The goal of the cosmetic is to encourage beard growth, but it may work for some and not for others.

So I've finally taken the courage to hire a chemist who has 12 years of experience in the cosmetic industry. His reviews are great and he states that he has experience in hair growth cosmetics.

The question:
Should my formulator do the research of patents/literature to find the most "effective" hair growth ingredients? Or should I just trust him with his logic: "These ingredients I will be using already have publications by their manufacturers so research is unnecessary, especially with my experience in formulating hair growth products".

As a side note, minoxidil 5% has given many men the ability to grow beards (with application lasting a year, to make the beards hairs terminal). My chemist is wanting to include Redensyl 4% which shows higher effectiveness than that of Minoxidil 1%. Minoxidil 1% and 5% is HUGELY different. This makes me think that men will not want to use Redensyl 4% at all then.

Thank you, any advice is appreciated.

Comments

  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Not sure who you hired, but you should work closely with him.

    You can have him cite references, but in my opinion Claims substantiation really falls upon the Marketer of this project, in this case you.

    Hair "growth" is a controversial area because a. if it really works it is an OTC and b. OTC's have a list of what you MAY use and it must be pre-approved.

    It is a lengthy process to get a new OTC approved. So in the end you have to make a Cosmetic product and avoid proof that it works.

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Hey @Microformulation , thanks for responding to my second posting! Yes you are right claim substantiation is a difficult process but my strategy was to market more on the benefits of having a beard and the "social need" of growing a beard as it is trending. Redensyl has won a cosmetic silver award in Europe I believe, so I was going to market about that. Also redensyl has a PDF file made by the manufacturer and that PDF includes test results and the science behind why it "could" promote hair growth. All of my claims will be based on that PDF. I've also noticed that other cosmetics with redensyl all state the same claims based on that PDF. Thoughts?
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Remember this. Cosmetic Raw material distributors are not selling finished goods and as such don't have to comply with the FDA Cosmetic Claims. It is WRONG to assume that since Induchem made a statement in their pdf you can make it. I would highly, highly, highly recommend that you consult with a Regulatory expert. You are making a naive error that many have.

    I am sure others will weigh-in as well. Good luck. That is all I need to say. Won't be me facing the FDA.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Could you explain to me a little bit more about cosmetic raw distributors not complying with FDA cosmetic claims?

    Are you saying that different formulators can make different "kinds" of redensyl, and thus create a less effective result?
    And why is it wrong to assume since Induchem made a statement in their pdf, i can make it?

    I know I am naive in this matter, but I've been researching on some similar hair growth companies and a very few amount of them have had FDA warnings on them and their claims. I've followed up with them and they've said they just simply removed some of the claims, and that they are still in business and are still selling their cosmetics. No fines, no legal involvement, just compliance.
  • The LOI of Redensyl states:

    Water, Glycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Glycine, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Zinc Chloride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

    Looks markedly like snake oil to me (or perhaps snake water, considering it's an aqueous base.)

  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Talk to a Regulatory person. Period. Don't interpret the law yourself as a layperson.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
Sign In or Register to comment.