Make oil based concealer more sticky? Slides off pimples

ZinkZink Member
edited September 2016 in Formulating
I'm working on improving a high coverage concealer with the following base formula (sans actives and pigments), in no particular order:

Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Squalane, Tocopherol, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Isododecane.

One piece of feedback I've gotten is that it slips off acne too easily, and ideas of how to fix this? What comes to mind would be increasing the Castor Seed Oil or even Tocopherol concentrations or replacing some of the Candelilla Wax with Beeswax to make it more sticky, but there might be other ingredients well suited for this that I'm unaware off.

Ideas?



Comments

  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    try adding microcrystalline wax

    it'll make the product waxier and less slippy without radically altering the rheology
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • ZinkZink Member
    edited September 2016
    Thanks Bill, what ballpark % do you think could work?  I noticed I only have Ozokerite Wax, think it could work instead?
  • In my opinion there are too many heavy oils/butter in your formulation.  If you used lighter oils (combined with a wax of some kind to thicken it), the product would absorb into the skin, leaving the pigment on the surface.  This would make it longer lasting - rather than sliding right off with the heavy oils.
      
    Maybe even replace some of the thicker oils with a triglyceride to make it lighter.  I would never use Castor Oil or Shea Butter in a concealer. 
    Hope this helps!  
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    @Zink probably not, ozokerite is a very different kind of wax to microcrystalline; it's hard, brittle and more like beeswax
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    @Candace hit it out of the park on this one. You need to have the concealer film ultimately left on the face be as "sticky" and have as much powder as possible - but that would be almost impossible to spread initially, So, you need some components that will improve initial slip, and then go away. If you can't use water or any other volatile that will go away into the atmosphere, then you have to use ingredients that will go away in the other direction - into the skin. 
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Thanks @Candance and @Bobzchemist ;

    You're probably right, although there as much isododecane in the formula as there is shea and castor seed oil combined. I will try to replace them with triglyceride and perhaps add some microcrystalline wax if necessary. Caprylyl methicone could also work here I imagine.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    You need more absorbent materials than triglycerides. Diisopropyl Adipate, or Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, for example. 
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Interesting, anything that's more readily available? Seems like both of those only come in 35 lb pails and this'll be small scale to begin with.
  • Ordered samples of propanediol dicaprylate, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate and Diisopropyl Adipate. Any usage rate estimates would be helpful.

    Made a different version of the formula where shea and castor seed oil got replaced by microcrystalline wax and caprylic/capric triglycerides respectively. Will see tomorrow how it compares!


Sign In or Register to comment.