Why is behentrimonium chloride ok but behentrimonium methosulfate not according to Whole Foods? - Cosmetic Science Talk

Why is behentrimonium chloride ok but behentrimonium methosulfate not according to Whole Foods?

Hi, it seems that the Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standards prohibit behentrimonium methosulfate, but allow behentrimonium chloride (they use it in their 365 EVERYDAY VALUE FRAGRANCE FREE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER). Yet, the ewg.org rating for the chloride is 3 and for the methosulfate is 1.

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/700657/BEHENTRIMONIUM_CHLORIDE/

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/700658/BEHENTRIMONIUM_METHOSULFATE/

Does anyone happen to know why they made this choice?

Perhaps they are concerned about the butylene glycol in BTMS-50. However, behentrimonium methosulfate is available without it in BTMS-25.

It seems there is more research available for behentrimonium chloride than behentrimonium methosulfate:

http://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr572.pdf

Would a high percentage of behentrimonium chloride/behentrimonium methosulfate in a conditioner bar concerning to you?:

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/06/conditioners-solid-conditioner-bars.html

The research suggests that concentration is an important factor in safety.


Thank you!,
John


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Comments

  • The list of Whole Foods Premium Body Care Standards unacceptable ingredients:

    https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/premium-body-care-unacceptable-ingredients
  • Please don't use the EWG as a source on here. The flaws of their database are numerous and have been covered at length. There are far better sources.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • edited August 2016
    Mentioning EWG is like muttering "double trouble stir and bubble" and waving your arms about.
    Special interests: anti-aging creams, gels, and serums; sulphate-free shampoos; and therapeutic cosmetics.
  • There are a few posts in the blog section of this website that point out the flaws in the Whole Foods Unacceptable List that might be of interest to you.

    Basically the list is far from scientific and as far as formulating goes if the list doesn't have the chloride form of the ingredient on the list just use that instead.
  • Thanks for the responses. @ozgirl yes, I read the Whole Foods posts, was hoping someone might have some insight into potential reasons they might prefer one of these common conditioner ingredients over the other - some knowledge of their own regarding these two chemicals.

    The research on behentrimonium chloride points to eye irritation, and tech support from ingredientstodiefor.com says that 'That material has a really high eye irritation level' (they carry BTMS-25). However, it could be that benehentrimonium methosulfate may be irritating as well, but there just haven't been studies done on it.

    I'm not concerned at the moment with conforming to the Whole Foods standards, I'm mostly concerned about creating the safest product.
  • @Belassi ; I couldn't have said it better.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • If you are looking for more valid safety data, try the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (http://www.cir-safety.org/).

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • I heard from someone at Whole Foods (not mentioning names) that a good chunk of their list was determined by a group of people in a conference room examining a selection of products they didn't want in their stores. The ingredients used in those products went directly on their list. That's why there are a number of ingredients on their list with incorrect INCI names - they came directly off product labels.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • @Bobzchemist is right.  The list of unacceptable ingredients was not arrived at through any scientific evaluation of data. They didn't really even have cosmetic scientists involved in making the list.

    The most simple answer to why Behentrimonium Chloride is acceptable is because it was already present in their house brand and they didn't want to reformulate.
  • I wish I could debunk what Perry and Bob have said, but sadly I can't.

    I work with many starting lines and hence get challenged to meet these WF standards quite a bit. My take away has been that outside of their websites, WF's doesn't do a great job in the stores promoting their more selective tiers (Premium). In the end, my clients are finding that meeting the basic requirements and getting physically on to the WF shelves is endorsement enough and easier to achieve.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications.
  • Interesting responses!

    @Microformulation I should have noted that the research I was referring to regarding behentrimonium chloride/methosulfate is that found in a review of the research sponsored by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review:

    http://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr572.pdf

    Thanks for the insight into the value of meeting the basic requirements vs the premium standards. I agree that as a consumer I don't notice the difference and that getting in stores by meeting basic requirements is enough.
  • This research/review seems to be where the view that behentrimonium chloride is highly irritating to the eyes stems from:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5j6vz7v9y0en4e3/Screenshot 2016-08-30 11.33.27.png?dl=0

    Unfortunately in this review, there isn't much research on behentrimonium methosulfate. I've only been able to find unsubstantiated claims that it is very mild and safe, for example:

    http://www.getsimplifica.com/behentrimonium-methosulfate/

    https://www.truthinaging.com/ingredients/behentrimonium-methosulfate



  • I am confused about their list. Lately, I am seeing behentrimonium methosulfate and other ingredients like propylene glycol, on products at my local store. I've also seen Alba Botanical's Acne dot products, which contain salicylic acid as an active ingredient. I thought these ingredients were on their unaccepted list.
  • That just means the product won't be put in their Premium Beauty aisle.
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