There's some demand for a nighttime facial lotion/cream that's great at reducing TEWL with good sensorials (not extremely waxy) and without synthetic ingredients (e.g. petrolatum, dimethicone or even hydrogenated vegetable oils).
I've proposed some tentative ingredients to go into an emulsion below with some % guesstimates for now. Let me know if you have suggestions for how to ensure TEWL is kept to a minimum!
Humectants
1% Urea
1% Hyaluronic Acid (molecular weight is important)
0.5% Allantoin
1% Panthenol
2.5% Sodium Lactate
Occlusives
5% Beeswax (refined)
5% Lanolin (water based)
3% Soy Lecithin (could be used as an emulsifier in conjunction with beeswax + borax)
Emollients
4% Shea Butter (some occlusive effect too)
4% Chia Seed Oil
4% Squalene (not squalane)
Other
1% Lactic Acid to adjust pH to 4?
Comments
@Mike_M out of curiosity is the lactic acid/urea combo a line of facial or body products?
Have been reading about urea/gluconolactone and urea/arginine/l-carnosine for various skin conditions and wondering about how these combos would fare as a facial moisturizer for winter skin.
Thanks @Mike_M. Will give it a go and see what comes of it.
Here is the PowerPoint presentation.
Natural qualifications
Formulation guidance
Usage level: 2-4 %
Suitable pH level: 4-10
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Belassi: Actually you DO want egg yolk lecithin on your skin see: 2013 Liposomes for Topical Use A Physico-Chemical Comparison of Vesicles Prepared from Egg or Soy Lecithin. But there are no suitable suppliers of liquid egg lecithin in the us.
Emulium-mellifera looks really nice though, I'll try it out!
Markbroussard: Thanks, worth testing, previously my main gripe with ritamulse and similar emulsifiers have been very rub in characteristics.