Need a bit of help with a formula!

Hello!
I am currently formulating a matte lipstick. The goal is to have a high pigment payoff and a nice matte finish, with strong staying power. Now i am new at this and not at all a professional, so please don't judge on the measurements. These are batch tests for 1-2 lipstick molds.

Here is the formula I have that has been the closest to my goal:

Formula:
ozokerite-5ml
carnauba-4ml
candelilla-4ml
ispropyl myristate-5ml
caprylis-4ml
castor oil-4ml
avocado oil -2ml
kaolin clay-7ml
mica-4ml
pigment- 6ml
vitamin e- few drops

I have an loi that I found that i was going after (not trying to duplicate entirely), however for me, it's difficult to find where the 1% starts in this specific loi.

LOI:
Ozokerite, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Kaolin, Mica, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Octyldodecanol, Flavor (Aroma), Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba), Isododecane, Hydogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Polyethylene, BHT, Caprylyl Glycol


I would just like a some advice from you pros.
Thanks a lot in advance!

Leesakai23

Comments

  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    And your question was, exactly?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • I should have put that in there huh?
    This formula's outcome was a good matte texture, but a little too dry. The color of the lipstick wasn't strong enough.

    should I remove or add something different in order to achieve a stronger color payoff and a less drier texture?

    THAT was my question :)
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    How are you grinding your pigment? Or is it pre-ground/dispersed?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • The majority of my pigments are dispersed in castor oil or pre-ground.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    Good, that helps. A lot of times, dryness is a problem that is seen with inadequately ground pigment dispersions.

    Sometimes with a problem like this, it helps to go back to the beginning and look at the desired characteristics of your product again. What is your list of things that you want this lipstick to do?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • My list of things I want for this lipstick:

    1.Highly pigmented color payoff
    2.a matte texture finish with a strong staying power.

    That's not asking for much right? :)

  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    That should be fine. The first thing you have to determine is the right level of pigment loading - the only thing that can increase your color is more pigment.

    The next step is a little tricky - determining how much pigment to use. Hopefully, you've got your mixture of pigments set - the question is just what percent level you want. 

    Mix your pigment grinds together in the right ratio to get your shade, then add your mica and kaolin. Mix well. Put a little on a q-tip or a lipstick brush, and apply it to your skin. It should be too intense - if it isn't, you have a problem with your pigment dispersions not being strong enough.

    Next, take about 2/3 of your pigment mixture, and mix it 50/50 with castor oil, and put a little on your skin again. This is the tricky part - you have to ignore the shine from the castor oil, and look past it to see if you have too little, about right, or too much pigment. Adjust your castor oil levels until you get a pigment level you're happy with.

    Unfortunately, I can't give you any other advice until you start weighing everything in grams. Using volume is much too variable for any help I can give, especially when you're using volume to measure solid ingredients.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • Thank you very much for your help. Much appreciated. i will try this experiment and see what the outcome is. Have a great weekend ;)
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