Shampoo Formula

I am currently working
on a natural shampoo formula and am having trouble with the formula thinning
out after a few days. I have tried making just the shampoo base and testing the
additives separately, and these have stayed a good stable viscosity. When I try to
combine all the ingredients, especially any sample that had the preservative added, it thins out after about 2 days. In addition, when I added a natural fragrance the shampoo had some separation. 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated


This is the formula that
I am working with:

57% Water

40% Iselux SFS (Water
(and) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and)  Sodium
Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate)

0.5% Hydrolyzed Wheat
Protein

0.5% Panthenol

1% Preservative (Gluconolactone
(and) Sodium Benzoate)

Citric Acid (50%
solution)

1% Salt

Comments

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Did you do a salt curve analysis?  Also, what is your pH range?

    For the fragrance you probably need a solubilizer like Polysorbate 20.


  • seems you have nowhere to go except changing fragrance and preservative. That's the main reason I don't like premixes like Iselux SFS
  • By "natural fragrance" do you mean essential oils?  If so which ones?   It will be helpful to know which ones you are using as some are known to cause issues like you are having.  (percentages are not necessary)

    David
  • DavidDavid Member
    edited August 2015
    with a formula like that I would even let innospec (supplier of Iselux) do all the work and let them find a suitable fragrance and preservative
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @ridabush:

    In what order are you adding the Ingredients?  If you post your process, perhaps that may give a clue.

    And, what "natural fragrance" are you using.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Can I use decyl glucose as my main surfactant in a formulation or do I have to use a anionic surfactant ?
  • What is your pH?  It sounds like you are at the top of your salt curve.
  • Decyl glucoside usually has a very high pH and will require a lot of citric acid to neutralise. Or you could use a carboxylic acid surfactant to neutralise.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
  • Interesting LOI for that product. Perry. Did you notice there are NO pH adjusters listed, despite the fact that DG is known to have very high pH? (up to 10.5 apparently)
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    Yes, it seems like there should be some Citric Acid in there. The product doesn't list ingredients properly so it's likely that there is just a mistake in the label.
  • Also gluconolactone gets converted into gluconic acid when dissolved in water, which may help to drop the pH
  • I have some Iselux SFS here and have tested it pretty thoroughly. My results were that our existing sulphate-free formula foams better, has better sensorials, and costs less. I am getting back to the *original* question here.
    I'm pretty sure your preservative is causing the problem you mentioned.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • heraklitheraklit Member, PCF student
    There is a decyl glucoside with pH 3-5:  Oramix ns10
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