GL-Pectin emulsion

https://www.google.com/patents/US4278657
Going to follow up on this. First I need some pectin...
Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.

Comments

  • Patent:

    Since the glycyrrhizic compounds and water-soluble polysaccharides used in the practice of the invention exert a mild action on the skin without causing irritation thereto and hence have great safety for the skin, the skin cosmetic composition of the invention does not pose the problem of skin irritation as contracted with skin cosmetic compositions containing synthetic emulsifiers.

    Furthermore, it is well known that glycyrrhizic acid and salts thereof are remarkably effective in the treatment of acute and chronic dermal diseases and are being used for external application in the field of dermatology. Thus, the skin cosmetic composition of the invention can be expected to have pharmacologically beneficial effects on the skin.

    - sounds like a new OTC drug in FDA terms.

    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • This made wonder if a patent always is a reliable source - where are the data supporting that it is "remarkably effective"?
  • Well, I am going to test their ideas, to see what happens.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • I'm going to begin with pectin. I will not test using the exact same formulae because I am not into using mineral oil, but I will otherwise stick closely to the spec and use the same process. If the pectin works as per patent I may obtain some other gum eg Xanthan and test again. I have half a kilo of pectin on the way so I look forward to doing some original work.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Pectin arrived. First experiment will be a liquid make-up base. It requires 20% liquid paraffin and I never use hydrocarbon mineral oil, so I will substitute Myritol 318. My main problem is going to be how to measure the oxides. For a 200g sample prep I only need 0.04g of each oxide. My best scales are accurate to 0.01g but the problem will be transferring it to the test batch without loss. Have to think this through... the emulsion comprises 25% oils and 71% water and emulsifies according to the patent, perfectly, with 0.3% GL and 2% Pectin.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • Finished the first test and result looks excellent. Nice pink-beige colour and nice consistency, excellent gloss, good sensorials. Instead of 20% liquid paraffin I used a blend of 10% SHS (a Schercemol ester) and 10% Myritol 318, this seems to have worked super well. Will work to refine this formula and then continue with skin creams.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • It occurs to me that salicylic acid has similar solubility issues to GL acid and I wonder if it can also make an emulsion using pectin? I can't try this because I don't have any salicylic acid.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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