Emollients in oil-based make-up

Hi there,

Anybody tried formulating make-up products like concealer using this formula:

48.5% Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
10% Octyldodecanol
3% Mica + L-lysine
3% Silica
0.5% Tocopherol
4% Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
5% Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer


It doesn't really get that slightly tacky feeling, non-oily, non-melting texture. It simply melts on contact with the skin, and that's what I'm trying to avoid in the texture of a concealer. I want it to be highly pigment and cover just on a single touch. I have seen MAC Cosmetics using Hydrogenated Polyisobutane in their Studio Finish Concealer in addition to my ingredients (- Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer). Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer is added because it's a 'natural' subsitute to cyclomethicone. 

I have been thinking about trying Polypropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate as a substiute for Hydrogenated Polyisobutane. I also looked for Triisostearyl Citrate to make textures more creamy, as I have heard this ingredient can do, but I can't find a low bulk supplier for this. Crambe Seed Oil which is supplied by Aromantic also has a special texture, might be usable. I've also been using slightly tacky ingredients like Rice Lipids, Pomegranate Sterols and Coconut Extract supplied by Formulator Sample Shop, which have given my lipglosses, lipsticks etc excellent feel and texture when it comes to the slightly tacky feeling. But these ingredients are very expensive. 

Any toughts, suggestions or ideas?

Comments

  • I also saw a few brands using Pvp/Hexadecene Copolymer. But this is a syntethic ingredient. 
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    It's hard to know where to begin...to start with, as a general rule, the more pigment and other powders you use, the tackier and draggier your product will be. You have to balance this against the drawback of this behavior, which is that the more pigment and other powders you use, the thicker and harder to pour/pump your product will become. A good pigment dispersant, like Anatron/Ganex WP-660 polymer (Triacontanyl PVP) will help mitigate the viscosity increase, to a point.

    So, the first thing I'd try would to be to run a 5 or 10 batch experimental series that increases your powder load incrementally.

    The next thing I'd try would to be to run a 5 batch experimental series that adds/increases a pigment dispersal aid incrementally.

    I also don't understand your last comment - about 80% of the formula you listed is synthetic - why is this an issue?

    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    One other thing - if you want to increase drag and tackiness, you should replace the ingredients that are designed to decrease drag and tackiness. For example, the mica coated with lauryl lysine - replacing that with uncoated mica will definitely increase the tackiness.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
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