Cosmetics & Toiletries^® Launches Four Online Video Education Courses

CAROL STREAM, IL—Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, in partnership with program director Perry Romanowski, has launched four courses in its Complete Cosmetic Chemist Training Program, an online community purposed with developing the skills of new formulators and seasoned cosmetic professionals alike.

Each multi-lesson course provides insight and information from the industry’s most esteemed experts, and the Web-based video format allows participants to learn at their own pace and at their convenience. Each course lesson features quizzes designed to ensure comprehension of all subject matter, and a Certificate of Completion is awarded upon successful closure of each course. An online discussion forum and monthly live chats with our subject matter experts are also available to course participants to take the learning experience even further.

The courses available include the following:

Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry—12 lessons, Total approx. run time: 11 hours, 22 minutes

Led by Perry Romanowski, this course covers all the essentials of cosmetic science to help chemists become confident and competent formulators. A copy of Romanowski and Randy Schueller’s best-selling book, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, Third Edition is also included in the registration for this course.

Developing Natural Cosmetic Formulations—9 lessons, Total approx. run time: 10 hours, 13 minutes

Experienced, international educators and hands-on natural formulators Judi Beerling and Art Georgalas present this course, which will afford new and seasoned formulators alike the opportunity to learn all about the raw material palette and practical aspects of constructing natural personal care products for the growing naturals market. A copy of Anthony C. Dweck’s Formulating Natural Cosmetics is included with the purchase of this course.

Optimization for Cosmetics—5 lessons, Total approx. run time: 4 hours, 56 minutes

Steven Abbott, PhD, delivers a series of lectures based on the ideas of his recently departed colleague and collaborator, Johann W. Wiechers, PhD. This course allows seasoned chemists and formulators to think afresh about many of the fundamentals that apply directly to their everyday work ethic. Participants in this course will receive a copy of Abbott’s Rheology for Skin Care Formulators Guide, data analysis spreadsheets and the data analysis software program referred to throughout the course.

Physiology of the Skin—8 lessons, Total approx. run time: 6 hours, 25 minutes

Board-certified dermatologist Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, presents an exclusive look at how cosmetic scientists, when armed with the medical knowledge of how and why the skin functions and what really makes it beautiful, can also apply their cosmetic science knowledge to proper product development in order to make the best and safest products possible.

For more information about these courses, or to register, visit learn.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com.

I always like to discover free online information.  The University of Minnesota is working on a new program where they make full textbooks available online (and there is the option to buy them too).  This is great!

You can see a free Chemistry Textbook here.

Here is an introductory chemistry book too.

Of course, if you can get the information for free you might wonder how the authors can make any money off their hard work.  Good question.  In truth, while some people can read a book and immediately understand concepts this is not true for most people.  Most people need information from books explained further before they get it.  You can read the entire Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry book but there will still be things that are hard to understand.  Books (whether free or otherwise) will never replace classrooms and instructors.

A common question we get here on Chemists Corner is where to find sources of raw materials. Ingredients like methanol, propylene glycol, or glycerin are commodities which will have a number of sources. More specialized ingredients like cocamidopropyl betaine or potassium methyl cocoyl taurate have fewer sources. Some cosmetic raw materials have only a single source which makes them a risk and challenge to use.

Where to get raw materials

Where you get raw materials depends a lot on who you are, what you want, how much you will buy, and how much you’re willing to pay. Here is a quick list that may guide you.

1. Independent chemist – Unless you have a reputation or friend in the industry it will be hard for you to get raw materials directly from companies. This is because they require you to buy a minimum amount of material which is often more than you really need. Typically, you’ll need to get raw materials from chemical distributors like Nexxeo or find a source online like Making Cosmetics. You can get commodity ingredients like methanol or glycerin but it may be harder to get specialty compounds. It can be done, but you need to prove to the chemical company that there will be future business for them.

2. Small company chemist – For chemists who work at established companies, your options open up. You’ll be able to contact many of the raw material manufacturers directly. A great resource is the INCI Directory. You’ll have to prove to them that you work for a company that makes product but it shouldn’t be too difficult to get the attention of distributors who are eager for business. You may still have a problem getting raw materials from large raw material manufacturers however. They just don’t want to deal with small accounts.  Going to an SCC trade show is a great idea!

3. Mid sized company chemist – Of all the situations, this is perhaps the best. All the major raw material companies will be interested in providing you samples and many of them will give you large quantities for free. You’ll often be too big for the supplier to relegate you to a distributor so you get a lot of attention. Also, you will be in the position to have custom made materials for you. Companies don’t like to do this too often but if they believe that there will be a big pay-off order, they’ll be willing to spend some resources. To get raw materials you need to build up your network of contacts in the industry and start speaking with sales people. Going to an SCC meeting is a great place to start.

4. Big company chemist – You would think that a big company chemist would be in the best position, and for some people it may be. Even mid sized companies are ignored by the biggest chemical suppliers so you theoretically will have access to everyone. Unfortunately, the bigger your company gets the more bureaucracy that gets developed which complicates everything. It is likely that you’ll have a regulatory department that you have to run all sample requests through. This increases the amount of time needed to get samples and can be incredibly frustrating. Ultimately, at a big company you will be able to get most any ingredient you want but it might take a little extra time.

Ultimately, where you get methanol or any other cosmetic raw material really depends on the strength of your network. Be sure to build up a presence on LinkedIn and connect with people. (You can connect with me here). But more importantly, go to industry meetings like SCC and talk with people. Trade business cards and contact them when you need something or you can help them out.

Good luck!

Faulkner’s new book Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations is the latest color cosmetic technology book from Allured Publishing. The book promises to provide a comprehensive look at all aspects of this subject and overall meets and exceeds that goal. Its blend of practical information and theoretical information make it a valuable addition to any cosmetic chemist’s bookshelf.

Book organization

This book covers the subject of colorants in 12 chapters. It also includes extensive appendices, glossary, and bibliography.

The first chapter provides a solid background for the subject of colorants, covering topics of color theory, effects on people, physics and finally an introduction color chemistry. This is particularly helpful for a cosmetic chemist just getting started with the subject.

The next four chapters take an in-depth look at the key aspects of choosing a colorant. These include regulatory considerations, stability, color esthetics, and the economics of color. The regulatory chapter provides a description of the requirements of the US, EU and Japan. It also includes a nice historical perspective of how things ended up the way they are now. This chapter is particularly helpful because it suggests what may happen to color regulations in the future.

In the chapter on color stability, the author describes the various colorants that a formulator will likely use in her product. Two parts of this chapter will be most helpful to cosmetic chemists including a chart which lists the compatibility of colorants with a number of solvents and a section of colored photos of numerous powdered colors. No doubt this will become a section of the book that gets referred to often.

One of the most useful chapters in the book is the one on color esthetics. Here the author takes us through dozens of colorants describing the shade that can be produced, which product forms it is normally used in and both positive and negative aspects of using the color. This chapter will save time for any color cosmetic formulator.

The chapters in the second half of the book deal with the specifics of formulating with colorants, testing, and newer pigment technology. The pigment dispersion chapter focuses on creating color cosmetic products and it would have been nice to see this expanded to cover more types of formulations. The color testing chapter is brief but detailed methodologies in the appendix more than make up for any shortcomings.

The final chapters of the book discuss some specific color technologies including surface treated pigments, effect pigments, specialty pigments and natural colorants. Each chapter provides a blend of interesting background science and practical knowledge that can be used at the bench right away.

Colorful ending

The book’s last chapter is possibly one of the most entertaining. It does not discuss much about colorants but rather provides some sage advice from a color formulator who has spent 40 years in the pigment and cosmetic industries. This is bound to make any cosmetic formulator smile.

There is a number of useful pages included after the primary text. This section makes up almost a third of the book and includes the aforementioned appendix on color testing methodologies, an extensive listing on the patent history of colorants, a glossary, and an index. The only weakness in this part is the index which would have benefited from more listings.

The title of this book suggests it will provide a detailed look at the world of pigments used in color cosmetics and it certainly delivers. For cosmetic formulators who are just getting started, this could be the one and only book on color that you will ever need. And its detailed regulatory information, practical formulating tips, testing protocols, and description of pigment and color technology make it an indispensable reference for all color cosmetic scientists.

One of the most overrated things in the cosmetic industry is getting a patent. They almost never give you an actual advantage and they are rather easy to get around.

But fortunately, companies still apply and get them. I say fortunately because they can be a great source for information for a cosmetic chemist. Here are some things you can learn from patents.

1. Starting formulas. Great place for finding how to make any kind of cosmetic. You’ll have to change the formula to sell the product but it’s a great place to start.

2. Manufacturing tricks. Not only can you get formula prevents you can also find clues on how to make formulas.

3. Testing procedures. Another great thing to discover in patents is procedures for testing your cosmetic product. Sometimes these can be pretty clever.

4. Product history. In the background section you can learn the history of the development of a formula type. Very interesting.

While I don’t believe patents are valuable for companies to get, they are certainly valuable for cosmetic chemists. Be sure to use them as often as you can.

When my group started the Beauty Brains in 2006 there were a couple thousand beauty blogs.  It was the early years of blogging but we were still relatively late to the party.  But we did have a unique angle and a tenacity for keeping the project going so 6+ years later we are still writing and going strong.  In some polls we are in the top 5 of all beauty blogs.  That’s pretty cool.

Beauty Blogs and cosmetic chemists

Of course, this website is for cosmetic chemists so I’ll try to bring it back to you.  There are a number of reasons you should be reading beauty blogs.

1.  Product ideas – You can find out what problems people most want solved.  And you can see what kluge consumers have invented themselves.

2.  Product opinions – You can learn what passionate consumers think about the performance of certain products.  There is nothing like a blog to reveal all of the flaws of yours (and your competitor’s) products.

3.  Trends – You can learn what products are most interesting and what is resonating with consumers.  Beauty blogs have thousands of followers and you can discover what they are thinking about right now.  Very helpful information for your marketing group.

4.  Getting opinions – Once you establish yourself as a follower of their blog you can ask specific questions of the blogger.  You don’t even have to reveal your own identity if you don’t want to.  As long as you are using the information to improve your formulas, there really isn’t a problem with it.

Top Beauty Blogs

So, now that you see the utility of beauty blogs, how do you know which ones to follow?  Well, here is a decent list of the top 100 beauty and fashion blogs.  They are not all beauty product related (lots of fashion stuff) but there are plenty that are.  If you are not following at least a few beauty blogs, you are missing out on some excellent new product and consumer feedback.

Do you have any suggestions for blogs that are great to follow?  Leave a comment below.

Here is an article about 100 incredibly useful and interesting websites. I’ve pared down the list to point out the ones that would be useful for anyone in the cosmetic industry.

Money

RetailMeNot – A place to find coupons for numerous stores.

Prosper – Need money for your business? Here is a place you can get crowdsourced loans.

Pageonce – If you have a problem keeping track of all your accounts, consolidate them with this website. It lets you keep track of everything in one spot.

Making things

HowStuffWorks – Look up any cosmetic or personal care product and you can get the basics of how it works. If we haven’t covered it here on Chemists Corner, it might be listed on HowStuffWorks.

TreeHugger- While I don’t put much faith in the scientific accuracy of this site, there is useful things you can learn about the Green consumer. If you are creating cosmetics for them, you should follow this website.

Getting stuff

Craigslist – If you are looking for something obscure (e.g. lab equipment) you might be able to find it here.

Freecycle – There could be some lab equipment here too. And if you want to get rid of something but you don’t want to throw it out, try Freecycle.

Traveling

Kayak- If you are looking to travel to a cosmetic science conference, Kayak is an excellent place to arrange your travel.

Publishing

Vimeo- Sure everyone knows about YouTube but Vimeo has a ton of videos and has a great collection of science videos that might be interesting for cosmetic chemists.

If you want to see the entire list go here.
100 useful websites

Do you know of some useful websites? Leave a comment below.

I was searching through some of my old bookmarks and was reminded of this website called the Martindale Center. The amount of information that they have is really quite amazing.

They have information on everything from science to language to fashion to business and beyond. You could get completely lost. It’s great!

You want to learn about Glass Blowing to make your own lab equipment? You can do that here. Glass blowing info.

Looking for lectures in first year chemistry? Find those chemistry lectures here.

And if you want some chemistry lab demonstrations…here’s a list of them right here. Chemistry lab demos

It really is an amazing collection of useful and interesting information.

If you find anything particularly cool, let us know!

While Chemists Corner is a great place to learn about the science of cosmetic formulating and some ins and outs of the cosmetics industry, there are other web resources that can provide you a different look on beauty products. Here are some of the best.

• Alltop – Headlines from some top beauty blogs.
• The Beauty Blog Network^* – The ultimate resource for beauty blogs.
• Cosmetics Business – Latest news stories in the cosmetic industry.
• Glam – The latest makeup trends, runway looks and posts from a network of beauty bloggers
• iVillage Beauty & Style Channel – Consumer focused site that features beauty tips, hairstyles and beauty news.
• Makeup Alley – A beauty community that features a message board and product reviews.
• Paula’s Choice – Paula Begoun, a.k.a. the “Cosmetics Cop” offers beauty advice and beauty product reviews.
• Total Beauty – Features beauty reviews, makeup tips and an active beauty blog community.

There was an interesting discussion on the SCC Linked-In group about what cosmetic chemists expect from suppliers. If you are a new cosmetic chemist you might not be familiar with some of the terms or what benefit raw material suppliers can have for you. Here are some ways your raw material suppliers can help make your job better. But first, let’s talk about how you will interact with a supplier.

Making supplier contact

There are basically four ways that you will connect with a supplier.
1. Sales person calls you
2. Distributor contacts you
3. You meet at an industry trade show or event
4. You contact the supplier
No matter the method, it almost always leads to a face to face meeting.

Education

Raw material suppliers should be experts in the field of whatever type of chemical they are selling. So, the surfactant suppliers should know about all surfactant chemistry. Preservative suppliers should be experts in preservative chemistry. You can ask them to give you general background information. Of course, they will push their own materials but that seems like an even trade.

Samples

When you hear about a compound or a sales person introduces it to you, they can also provide you with a (typically free) sample. They do this because it is the best way to ensure that you evaluate their raw materials and increases the chances that you will use it when you launch a product.

Technical support

When you run into a stability problem or batch problem, the raw material suppliers should be willing and able to help you fix the problem. If you run into a problem you can’t solve right away, contact your supplier.

Regulatory paperwork

With the way governments are changing regulations, the job of a cosmetic chemist is becoming more and more one where you have to track down and collect paperwork for every raw material you use. Your raw material supplier is the source for this paperwork. Use them.

Innovation / New product ideas

Suppliers should be bringing you potential new product ideas and you should request them if they are not. Why would they give you new ideas? Well, they make money by selling chemicals to you. If they suggest an idea that you ultimately launch, they will (or should) get orders for some of their chemicals. Suppliers are an excellent source for new ideas but remember, they want to sell chemicals so they’ll give this idea to other companies too.

Industry news

Suppliers are like the bees of the cosmetic industry. They go around to all the different manufacturers picking up inside information and depositing the information to other places around the industry. At times, they may accidentally spill a secret, a bit of gossip, or some other useful bit of news (say a new job opening). When you build a personal relationship with your supplier, you’ll be more likely to learn inside information. Of course, this also raises the possibility that they will learn info from you that gets shared with other places around the industry so beware.

Perks

In an effort to cultivate relationships, suppliers will often take you out to lunch or dinner or otherwise entertain you as a potential client. Most companies do not have a problem with this and remember that there is no quid-pro-quo. That is, just because someone does something nice for you does not mean that you are otherwise obligated to use their stuff. Of course, some companies do not allow their chemists to accept any perks from suppliers so be sure to learn what your company’s policies are regarding the acceptance of gifts.

Suppliers can be a great resource for cosmetic chemists. Use them respectfully and wisely, and they can help make your job much easier.

How have suppliers helped you?  Leave a comment below