Article by: Kelly Dobos
There are a large number of colorants with good stability in lip cosmetics, giving the cosmetic chemist a lot of creativity in creating numerous finished product shades. The color additives used in lipsticks are divided in several categories: Organic colors are divided in main colors and shading colors categorized by yellow or blue shade. There are some additional specialty colors in the organic category and inorganics that are used as well. Below is a summary of the main colors and shading colors used in lipstick and lip gloss.
Main Colors: These colors constitute the largest percentage of the color additive portion of the formula. They are the main colorants because they are bright and exhibit very good color intensity, making them economical. The colors in this category are:
D&C Red No. 6 Ba Lake
D&C Red No. 7 Ca Lake
D&C Red No. 6
The Red 6 Lake is used as the main colorant in yellow red formulations, while the Red 7 Lake is used in blue shade ones. The Red 6 is used as the main color in yellow shade reds for the Japanese market.
Yellow Side Shading Colors: These colorants are used in combination with the main colors to create various shades in the yellow color space:
FD&C Yellow 5 No. Al Lake
FD&C Yellow 6 No. Al Lake
D&C Red 36
The Red 36 can also be used as the main colorant in orange shades.
Blue Side Shading Colors: These colorants are used in combination with the main colors to create various shades in the blue color space:
D&C Red No. 33 Al Lake
D&C Red No. 27 Al Lake
D&C Red No. 28 Al Lake
The Red 33 Lake can also be used as the main colorant in violet shades, while the Red 27 Lake is the ideal choice for fuchsia shades.